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Routes in The Splinter

West Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Trevor and Eddie Bowman 5/3/08
Page Views: 30 total · 0/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on May 4, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

P1-The tight chimney of good rock on the down-canyon side of the spire. Wriggle up this past 4-5 chockstones (bring several double or triple-length runners). From the top of the chimney, hike up a short slope of dirt and talus--be extremely careful of loose rocks here!--and sling a giant chockstone in the notch between the summit pinnacle and the cliff behind for an anchor.
P2--Pull above the anchor chockstone and up a leaning crack on the summit pinnacle; step left onto the featured slab and run it out to the top.
The summit is quite cool, as it is a smooth sheet of dolomite tilted at a slight angle.

Location

Obvious chimney on west (down-canyon side of spire). The short second pitch starts directly out of the notch between the summit pinnacle and the cliff. Rap off the opposite face from the route (140'); or, rap down to the notch (25') and scramble off on ledges on the up-canyon side of the spire past dense brush (kind of a thrash).

Protection

Several 3-4 double/triple length runners for chockstones and a cordalette for the chockstone anchor on P1. A couple medium stoppers and a 1" cam for P2. 2 bolt anchor on top. Bring replacement webbing.

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