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Routes in Ska Block

Dopeman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Guns of Navarone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rock Steady S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruder Than You S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solo Crack T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Tristan Higbee, April 2008
Page Views: 39 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Apr 21, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

A fun little climb with bad protection. Head up the shallow corner to a good pocket in the crack. Place the big nut/cam and maybe a micro nut or two and follow the crack left (crux). Move back up the crack and follow it to the top, placing some micro nuts (that may or may not hold) along the way.

Location

About ten feet from the left edge of the Ska Block. You'll need to fight against a small tree/bush for the first couple moves.

Protection

Several brass micro nuts and larger nut (I used the big HB offset) or cam for a placement down low. Chain anchors.

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To think...years ago when I first put the top anchors in we were planing to bolt this...I'm glad Tristan is so pushy when it comes to keeping things trad if possible. Way to go bud!
The gear can be tricky but the overall grade makes it feel less scary. Mar 31, 2009
Darren Knezek
  5.8 PG13
Darren Knezek  
  5.8 PG13
The gear didn't seem too bad, you just had to sacrifice some of your handholds for the gear. I would take cams from .4" to 1.75". You can clip the last bolt of Ruder Than You as it seems right in line for the topout of this climb. I tried all the ballnut sizes and they didn't work well anywhere for me. The 1.75" cam in the first slot you can fit it into was key for me. May 20, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Delicate climbing and delicate protection. This little climb is tougher than it looks. It's probably a good idea to not fall on any of the pieces. I had a TCU pop out while I was climbing... If you're comfortable placing micro nuts, this climb is worth the effort. The smallest Ballnut or two would also be good protection, but I don't have any... Apr 21, 2008