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Routes in Shady Lane

245 North S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bicycle Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blunt Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Godfrees S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ted S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,153 total · 9/month
Shared By: KipHenrie on Mar 26, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


79 Opinions

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Description

This route starts vertical and slowly tips past vertical. The first part is on huge jugs then you pull the roof onto some pocket pulling (the crux). Endurance is definitely a factor.

Location

Right of Blunt Arete, it's the route that pulls the small roof 2/3 way up.

Protection

11 bolts to chains.

Photos

C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This is a great little warmup! 5.9 to 5.10 climbing for the first 3/4 of the route, with plentiful rests. Pull the small bulge on jugs and then tiptoe to the chains on very positive crimps and pockets. Maple has very few routes in the 5.11- range that are very good, but this one is great! Get on it! Aug 3, 2015
The new guide book gives it 4 stars and the rating 11b. Really fun route the only hard part is high at the headwall puling on pockets. Aug 12, 2016
Caden Bloxham
  5.10d
Caden Bloxham  
  5.10d
Very long route, but the bottom section (before the roof/bulge) felt pretty cruiser. The top is comparatively very thin, but the holds are there (most are ticked), and it goes.

Could be an .11- due to length-factor, but none of the moves really felt harder than .10d.

Lots of great movement, from bottom to top. A great route overall. Aug 29, 2016

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