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Routes in Guard Tower

Pardon T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Parole T,S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Probation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Warden S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Ben Burnham, 1999
Page Views: 1,164 total, 10/month
Shared By: Joseph Stover on Mar 23, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Center route on the guard tower formation. This route is pretty fun on TR, not sure how the pro in the crack is, and maybe a fun lead if the bolt had a hanger. Thin moves up to a crack and a tricky crux to reach above the roof, then a fun pull over it.

Protection

Bolt (missing hanger) + a few gear placements, chains up top

Photos

Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
The bolt at the roof has a new hanger now. A medium tricam helps if you want pro above the roof before the anchor. It's easy, but a fall would be horrible. Feb 12, 2015
We got on this today solely because it was in the sun. I've walked passed this climb a dozen times and it never piqued my interest until today, but I'm glad I did. It's a good lead. It's fun. Crux is cool. Roof is cool. Runout over easier ground but good pro where you need it. Jan 4, 2015
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10 PG13
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10 PG13
A bit runout at bottom and top, adequate but fiddly gear in the middle.

Would have felt better w a good stopper in the crack but only brought one I had to save to sling the bolt stud. Jan 8, 2012
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.10+
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.10+
So if you sling the hanger-less bolt with a nut is it still a trad climb? haha. So I climbed this on TR after my girl lead "Probation" this is a FUN climb with a lot of different kinds of moves on a single route. Lieback crack, face, roof lip move with highstep/heel hook, jug hauling, ect... The crux is the 10' crack/blank section below the roof and maybe the roof move if you are short. Oct 3, 2011
dale polen
arivaca, az
dale polen   arivaca, az
You can sling the bolt with a nut. Dec 21, 2010
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
  5.10+
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
  5.10+
There's a bomber #1 camelot placement about 3" right of the hangerless bolt.

The hangerless bolts got that way after I mentioned the placement to Ben (having onsighted it with all gear.) He told me he'd take the bolt out. Looks like he just took the hanger off instead. :-(

There's also room for decent pro probably in the green to yellow alien range under the roof, but the placement next to the bolt is much much better.

This was my first 5.10 trad lead many years ago, I think. Just top-roped it recently, and found it plenty challenging.

For what it's worth, the gear in the thin crack is fantastic. As I recall, I sewed it up pretty good with nuts and small cams. Apr 5, 2009
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
That hanger has been MIA for year's now! Pretty lame as this is a pretty popular area. Mar 23, 2008