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Routes in Fickle Finger of Fate

Moonwalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+
Type: Trad, Aid, 130 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kyle Copeland, Marc Hirt, Alison Sheets October 10, 1989
Page Views: 1,451 total · 12/month
Shared By: Matt Pickren on Mar 16, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Moonwalker climbs the crack system to the large shelf then up the face to the left hand ridge to the summit.

Pitch 1- climb the flaring crack 40 feet to the shelf. Belay on natural gear. 5.9

Pitch 2- climb around 6 1/4 studs to a 3/8 bolt with hanger. Two more pins lead to more studs and free climbing moves onto the ridge. Free climbing is protected by 1 bolts and about 5 more studs. Then traverse around the right of the summit block and mantle to the top. Most studs had washers and machine nuts on them.

Descent- rap the north face with 2 60 meter ropes. 1 70 meter rope will get you down. 1 60 meter rope will get you very close, you may need to downclimb a couple of easy moves.

Protection

Bring a single set of cams for pitch 1. All you need for pitch 2 in many medium wires for protection over the studs and washers and nuts. Quickdraws (x5) free biners (x10).
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.9 C0
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.9 C0
Another fun close to town tower.

Rack: one medium stopper to protect the first move plus singles in .75, 1, 2 camalots. You only need about 10 draws to leave on the bolts and 2 rivet hangers to move along with you. Single 70m rope.

The free climbing on P2 is very easy; approach shoes are fine.

P1 is 5.9, P2 is 5.5 C0. Apr 11, 2017
A-W
 
A-W  
 
All the hardware felt fine for the most part. Bring a pencil/pen for the summit register. Just FYI, we climbed this with the intention of rigging the highline on it (first done by Andy a year or two ago) but backed off due to soft rock and a couple loose terry bolts on top. There is a nice 2-bolt climbing anchor on top but I personally would never incorporate climbing bolts into a highline anchor. Nov 30, 2015
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
first off- thanks sam for the bomber hardware. this thing is a blast. what a fun tower and so close to town. we did not take the "normal" approach. instead we hiked the ridge to the right at 5.5+++D. much cleaner than the gully and it takes you right to the tower. taylor took the sharpie on the first pitch and placed maybe 5 pieces of gear. i took the second. used i think maybe 20 draws and 9 rivet hangers. stellar good pro. drake cleaned it up in tennis shoes. 70 m rope for sure. i would not use a single 60. we hiked down the gully to get out. the 4th class didn't look to bad to me but there was a fixed line so we used it. crazy good fun!!! Sep 30, 2012
That 4th class to get to the base looked sketch. Luckily someone left me a fixed line.
Thanks for fixing the route up Sam! Aug 21, 2011
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Powerful Jim has been climbing around here since the Colorado Plateau was a coastline. He was completely shocked about how easy they snapped... you were on A5 dude, you just didn't know it. May 15, 2008
Matt Pickren  
 
Sam, you must be really really strong to break those studs because all of my climbing partners (Ben, Brad and Bill) all tell me I am fat (especially Ben, he can be rude) and the studs held me!

Wow, scary to think about when those were all I had for gear between me and that big ledge.

Thanks so much for all your hard work you put into keeping climbing in the desert safe. We all really appreciate your time and effort, as do those who like having us around. You're the man!, man.

-Matt May 15, 2008
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Powerful Jim and I did this thing yesterday. We had been told by a friend that the 1/4 inch studs were sketchy... his partner broke one under body weight. For this reason we went prepared to replace some. I tested the first one off the ledge and it snapped-off on the first tug... dido second one. I was then able to break every studd (Funkenss just broke them) with less than three taps of the hammer. Not whacks, taps. We ended up replacing all the studs with 3.8 studs and a couple of halfies to keep you off the deck. It actually has fewer fixed pieces now, but stronger ones. Good, clean anchor on top.
Some things to keep in mind:
The 4th class approach is sandy with very dire consequences. Keeps the muggles away.
The single cam rack is perfect, but that pitch is also sandy and has a spooky start. A small nut of large micro nut will probably fit in a pin scar for the sandbox move off the ground.
While the means of gaining this summit are less than inspirational, the views from the top and the close-to-town-adventure quality make it worthy.
Moamar Bonswali managed to run from his car to our fixed line, jug it, and hit the summit, in less than 40 minutes. Solid effort. Apr 26, 2008