Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Rob Turan
Page Views: 5,839 total · 43/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 24, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route

152 Opinions

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Climb up a large hunk of rock, then up the arete past an overhang. Continue up the arete to anchors near the top. Tall and exposed, it shares the same great view as Spawn.


Just right of Spawn, on the arete you pass under when you come to the wire hand-line leading to the Solstice Cave.


10 bolts, anchors


Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
although aesthetic, this route should probably be avoided as its poorly bolted and continues needlessly higher than it should. rope drag is a BIG problem on this route and its a PITA to clean. Oct 25, 2010
Gary Owen  
Harsh...I enjoyed it and didn't have any issues with bolting or drag. Mar 5, 2011
Dylan Demyanek
Las Vegas, NV
Dylan Demyanek   Las Vegas, NV
There are issues with rope drag, but nothing that a few runners can't fix. Anyways, this route is one of the best 9s in the east and is well worth it. I personally love the final 20' "extension" at the top. Oct 20, 2011
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
Lots to like about this route. Long and sustained with a lot of variety and great exposure. I had no problems whatsoever with rope drag or cleaning. Excellent lead! May 21, 2012
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
I didn't have any issues with drag, but i do agree the last couple bolts don't add anything to the route. Fun climbing up the arete for sure. Oct 15, 2012
Jeff Edge  
Getting onto/around that big block at the start is always harder or more awkward than I remember... First time I led this was a long time ago, and only got on it to get my draws back after I bailed off of Spawn due to me being a total noob back then, and my partner even newer. Great route though, certainly one of the better 9s around, and climbing high is fun for a lot of us even if it doesn't "add" anything. Mar 13, 2013
Tradtime   Tennessee
Warning: The first set of anchors are worn to a deadly degree. Do not toprope or rappel off them. Sling chicken head to the right of bad anchors to back them up. Make one more move to the top for better ring anchors.

  • additional beta* - for the first 3 clips, use longer quickdraws or slings to avoid rope drag. Top belay your partner up for easiest cleaning - cleaning on rappel is difficult. Use the good anchors at the top not the first set of death ones. Bring sling and biner for chicken head. Overall fun, well protected, and easy for the grade.
May 21, 2013
kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
kyle howe   Knoxville, TN
I had no problem with rope drag and I enjoyed the last 20' of the climb - great views. We also didn't find the route hard to clean, we just climbed through the gear and cleaned it no problem. Fun route for the grade with a powerful move under the small roof. May 9, 2014
Didn't notice anything wrong with anchors when I cleaned it yesterday. The cold-shuts that the guidebook claims this wall has are all gone. Rope drag is an issue but I wouldn't say it's poor bolted (unless you mean overbolted) because I'm not sure how else they're supposed to bolt it with the way it goes around the arete. Really fun for a 5.9 with some unusual exposure and a great view. The exposure is good for someone working on their lead head. Nov 11, 2014
Nick Metzger
Chattanooga, TN
Nick Metzger   Chattanooga, TN
"Second Best Seat in The House" Mar 26, 2015
Nick Brennan
Concord, NH
Nick Brennan   Concord, NH
I used slings for the first two bolts and a long sport draw (12"?) on the third, and 8" quick draws on the rest. Rope drag was negligible and my partner cleaned it on TR. Good climb, wanders a little and has a definite crux. Fantastic view. Might psych-out the marginal 9 leader.

We ended the pitch at the shiny, new rings and bolts just before the final ledge where the rusty open shuts are. Mar 9, 2016
Derrick Keene
Derrick Keene   Kentucky
Fun route. I felt it was bolted just fine and no major rope drag issues. Pull a roof move at the very bottom to add a little spice to it. Nov 27, 2017