Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: Witt Boy
Page Views: 3,481 total · 25/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jan 31, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route

114 Opinions

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A sport route that also makes a good beginner trad lead. Climb the face just left of the corner/crack to meet up with the corner. Continue up the corner past a steep section, then out the right face of the corner to anchors.


Starts in a left-facing corner, to the right of the Comic Reliefs and Pit.


sport: 6 bolts, anchors

trad: light rack, hands to fingers, anchors


ryan baxter  
hollow blocks before last bolt actually seem solid. be mindful, as they do flex when weighted. without these holds, the moves seem unlikely Oct 8, 2008
Fun climb to "go nuts" on. Ditch the cams! A set of stoppers is all you need for a light and enjoyable trad climb at South Clear.

The hollow flake at the top seems to be very near the point of breaking off, although I'm told its been that way for a few years. Ensure your belayer has a helmet on and is very attentive during the last few moves. Apr 4, 2010
FWIW - The hollow blocks below the last bolt are still there, but seemed sketchy. Without those, the moves are less than fun (I led it but relied on the belayer a bit much and mantled over to the ledge - ugly!). Nov 21, 2010
Mike Lambino
Jasper, Ga
Mike Lambino   Jasper, Ga
Doesn't feel like 5.7 when you exclude the X'ed out blocks. Last climb of the day, nice surprise at the end. Feb 28, 2012
Cody Ashe
Cody Ashe   Brevard
Very Cool route, think its tougher tan a 5.7, but still a very cool route. Dec 31, 2012
Always harder than I remember it being, usually just do it for old time's sake while I'm here. Fun route for anyone, really. Mar 13, 2013
Gordy85 Gameson
Bowling Green, KY
Gordy85 Gameson   Bowling Green, KY
Great route for beginner's on trad. There is a ton of really bomber pro available...you can definitely stitch this one up tight if you're feeling shaky. Fun roof to pull up near the top. You really only need a set of nuts, a few slings, and draws to protect this route, although there were a few spots that will take #1-3 cams. Awesome route! Mar 22, 2015
Derrick Keene
Derrick Keene   Kentucky
If you stay off the weak X'd holds I'd say it goes as a 5.8 sport and 5.7 trad rating. Nov 27, 2017