[Hide Comment] Harsh...I enjoyed it and didn't have any issues with bolting or drag. Mar 5, 2011

[Hide Comment] There are issues with rope drag, but nothing that a few runners can't fix. Anyways, this route is one of the best 9s in the east and is well worth it. I personally love the final 20' "extension" at the top. Oct 20, 2011

[Hide Comment] Lots to like about this route. Long and sustained with a lot of variety and great exposure. I had no problems whatsoever with rope drag or cleaning. Excellent lead! May 21, 2012

[Hide Comment] I didn't have any issues with drag, but i do agree the last couple bolts don't add anything to the route. Fun climbing up the arete for sure. Oct 15, 2012

[Hide Comment] Getting onto/around that big block at the start is always harder or more awkward than I remember... First time I led this was a long time ago, and only got on it to get my draws back after I bailed off of Spawn due to me being a total noob back then, and my partner even newer. Great route though, certainly one of the better 9s around, and climbing high is fun for a lot of us even if it doesn't "add" anything. Mar 13, 2013

[Hide Comment] Warning: The first set of anchors are worn to a deadly degree. Do not toprope or rappel off them. Sling chicken head to the right of bad anchors to back them up. Make one more move to the top for better ring anchors.

• additional beta* - for the first 3 clips, use longer quickdraws or slings to avoid rope drag. Top belay your partner up for easiest cleaning - cleaning on rappel is difficult. Use the good anchors at the top not the first set of death ones. Bring sling and biner for chicken head. Overall fun, well protected, and easy for the grade.

May 21, 2013

[Hide Comment] Didn't notice anything wrong with anchors when I cleaned it yesterday. The cold-shuts that the guidebook claims this wall has are all gone. Rope drag is an issue but I wouldn't say it's poor bolted (unless you mean overbolted) because I'm not sure how else they're supposed to bolt it with the way it goes around the arete. Really fun for a 5.9 with some unusual exposure and a great view. The exposure is good for someone working on their lead head. Nov 11, 2014

[Hide Comment] "Second Best Seat in The House" Mar 26, 2015

[Hide Comment] I used slings for the first two bolts and a long sport draw (12"?) on the third, and 8" quick draws on the rest. Rope drag was negligible and my partner cleaned it on TR. Good climb, wanders a little and has a definite crux. Fantastic view. Might psych-out the marginal 9 leader.

We ended the pitch at the shiny, new rings and bolts just before the final ledge where the rusty open shuts are. Mar 9, 2016

[Hide Comment] Fun route. I felt it was bolted just fine and no major rope drag issues. Pull a roof move at the very bottom to add a little spice to it. Nov 27, 2017

[Hide Comment] Onsighted to the new chains, then realized I hadn't brought a camera up. Climbed it again simply for the view up top it's that pretty! Second go, I went to the "rusty cold shuts" on upper tier and brought my 2nd up for easier cleaning and so we could both enjoy the view. They had some rust, but I through they looked decent enough to trust. Lowered partner to ground then rapped Spawn from the coldshuts (PLENTY of room with a single 70m). No issues with drag or pull, up or down. Upper headwall to the newer chains reminded me of Vegas sandstone...different character to the rest of the route but fun in it's own way :) Sep 17, 2019

[Hide Comment] Great warmup, but is no "gimme" for the grade due to the bouldering crux at the large block. Fun climbing ensues, with a great view! Feb 1, 2021

[Hide Comment] youtu.be/2uzs8ZQxCDs May 21, 2024