Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Turtle Rock

Antidote S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cease Fire T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Conglomernaut T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Faith T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Klingon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Metamorphosis S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Open Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pebble Power T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pygmy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rodeo Ride T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shallow Stemming Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Skipper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sloth S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spooky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toxic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Turtle Soup T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turtles Tail T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Twinkle Toes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Curtis Glass - 1989
Page Views: 643 total, 5/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Feb 10, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Your first thought as you look up at this seemingly-unprotectable line may be one of awe that someone actually made the first ascent on gear. Your next thought will probably be something like "let's set up a toprope!" It's worth noting that a retrobolt of Cease Fire was subsequently chopped.

The route follows an obvious shallow right-facing corner for most of its length. Using crimpy laybacks and whatever holds you can find on the face, balance your way up the corner and then onto the left face about three-quarters of the way up. Pull a bulge using lichen-covered slopers and crimpers to reach the top.

Location

Starts about 10' left of Shallow Stemming Corner.

Protection

Micronuts, tiny cams and nerves of steel should be all you really need. Build a gear anchor at the top. A toprope can easily be set up by scrambling to the top of the pinnacle from the east end.

Photos

Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
This route is very easily protectable with small set of nuts. The only runout spot is at the top, where you can get two 00 TCU's in, one over the other...that's all for the last 12 or so feet, just rehearse it on TR first. Jun 4, 2008