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Routes in Turtle Rock

Antidote S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cease Fire T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Conglomernaut T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Faith T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Klingon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Metamorphosis S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Open Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pebble Power T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pygmy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rodeo Ride T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shallow Stemming Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Skipper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sloth S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spooky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Toxic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Turtle Soup T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turtles Tail T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Twinkle Toes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Shannon Stegg, Stewart Coffield - 1990
Page Views: 1,432 total, 11/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 6, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

A great, pumpy lead that will test your willpower! Juggy holds and horns help to compensate for the lack of any rest stances for placing gear on the steadily overhanging conglomerate wall. Just keep moving! You'll want to be really solid at the grade before trying this one.

Location

At the far east end of the Sun Wall; starts 20' right of Mobile Launcher.

Protection

Plentiful placements for medium gear, with some good horns to sling as well. Save some bigger stuff for building an anchor at the top.

Photos

Bob M
Alpharetta, GA
  5.8+
Bob M   Alpharetta, GA
  5.8+
I really like this little route, and I'm glad it hasn't been bolted up. The pro was great, although like the description says, you're not getting any rest stances to place it. Other than a single yellow Mastercam, I think we did it with stoppers and horn slinging.

It is strange there's no anchor at the top, though. I slung a couple of the horns and belayed from the top, but some might not be comfortable with that setup. Mar 30, 2015