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Routes in Dixie Reality

Dixie Reality T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Full Scholarship T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Sean Cobourn, Buddy Brasington, and Eddie Medina 2006 FFA: Shannan Milsaps 4-27-08
Page Views: 9,439 total, 78/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Jan 8, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Face climb up face from the left to crack through roof. Launch out the roof to the end. Turn the corner on the tip and pull up onto face. Hard moves lead to easy scrambling to a tree up top.

Location

On a ridge coming off right side of Shumont and left of Hanging Chain.
It can sort of be seen from the parking lot in winter if you know where to look. There is no "good" or "easy" approach. But it is well worth a bushwack.

Protection

takes multiple #3 camalots and other gear.

Photos

Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
Between Shumont Mountain and Hanging Chain area. Look around and you may stumble across it.
I always approached via Eagle Rock on the North Side. I had a deal with previous owners since we were working together to help build the park. Being able to drive certainly made approach easier, but it is a lovely hike. At gate at end of Shumont Mt. Church Road, hike up the 4WD road. Be sure to stop at Eagle Rock on the left for stunning views of the north side of the bald which has hundreds of established pitches, currently closed by park management. Keep hiking to the right. Road forks left and then goes downhill. There is a short slick rock section. At bottom of this section look for a road cutting back hard right. Take this turn. Follow it downhill. You are now on southside of ridge. See photo on area page. At end of road there is a small creek. A faint trail continues a short distance to a ridgecrest. Cut left down the ridge until it is easier to drop right into the broad drainage to the right below Shumont. Cross the drainage and crest the next ridge. At the ridgecrest turn left and go down towards lake until your jaw drops when you see the giant roof. Climb it then maybe blaze a trail to Hanging Chain and perhaps an easier future approach. Apr 26, 2017
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
you are correct Russ! Apr 26, 2017
I believe this is the climb that made the cover of Mike/Sean's Rumbling Bald guide book! Apr 23, 2017
Any beta on finding this thing? Didn't notice it on my way to hanging chain yesterday. Feb 21, 2011
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
It's really great that FAs like this can still be found these days. Great work. You have truly created a "Back in the day" hardman story to tell future generations of climbers. Feb 3, 2009
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
Ed Williams, Shannon Millsaps and I went in there today in pretty iffy weather. In one of the finest displays of climbing I have ever witnessed, Shannon fired the coveted FFA on his first try since last year. Let's say it is 5.12. Apr 27, 2008
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
David- the approach up to the roof is 5.10 and most of moves out the roof itself are not that hard; individually. The jams are pretty good, the pro is bomber and the fall is clean. Ed predicts it will be "only" 11+. Probably will go soon. We just haven't been back lately. Apr 9, 2008
Jacob Neathawk
Nederland, CO
Jacob Neathawk   Nederland, CO
has this route been freed yet? looks amazing Mar 18, 2008
I'm sorry, and I'm sure that I'll get an ear-full but what part of that roof is 5.10? Feb 20, 2008
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
 
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
 
I blatantly aided the thing. Ed and Shannon (see photos) are making great strides towards freeing it. Jan 8, 2008