Dixie Reality

I blatantly aided the thing. Ed and Shannon (see photos) are making great strides towards freeing it. Jan 8, 2008

I'm sorry, and I'm sure that I'll get an ear-full but what part of that roof is 5.10? Feb 20, 2008

has this route been freed yet? looks amazing Mar 18, 2008

David- the approach up to the roof is 5.10 and most of moves out the roof itself are not that hard; individually. The jams are pretty good, the pro is bomber and the fall is clean. Ed predicts it will be "only" 11+. Probably will go soon. We just haven't been back lately. Apr 9, 2008

Ed Williams, Shannon Millsaps and I went in there today in pretty iffy weather. In one of the finest displays of climbing I have ever witnessed, Shannon fired the coveted FFA on his first try since last year. Let's say it is 5.12. Apr 27, 2008

It's really great that FAs like this can still be found these days. Great work. You have truly created a "Back in the day" hardman story to tell future generations of climbers. Feb 3, 2009

Any beta on finding this thing? Didn't notice it on my way to hanging chain yesterday. Feb 21, 2011

I believe this is the climb that made the cover of Mike/Sean's Rumbling Bald guide book! Apr 23, 2017

you are correct Russ! Apr 26, 2017

Between Shumont Mountain and Hanging Chain area. Look around and you may stumble across it.
I always approached via Eagle Rock on the North Side. I had a deal with previous owners since we were working together to help build the park. Being able to drive certainly made approach easier, but it is a lovely hike. Get an online parking permit from CRSP. From the parking area hike up the 4WD road. Be sure to stop at Eagle Rock on the left for stunning views of the north side of the bald. The road goes uphill to the right from Eagle then it forks. Go left downhill. You will pass two short slick rock sections. At bottom of the second section look for an overgrown road cutting back hard right. Take this turn. Follow it downhill. You are now on southside of ridge. See photo. At end of road there is a small creek. A faint trail continues a short distance to a ridgecrest. Cut left down the ridge until it is easier to drop into the broad drainage to the right which is below Shumont. Cross the drainage and crest the next ridge. At the ridgecrest turn left and go until your jaw drops when you see the giant roof. Climb it then maybe blaze a trail to Hanging Chain and perhaps an easier future approach. Apr 26, 2017