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Routes in Holds Up Bluff North

Beer and Smear T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Block Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cripple Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fantasy Land T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fear and Smear T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seaweed Patch T,S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Clark 1983
Page Views: 133 total, 1/month
Shared By: SaraB on Dec 18, 2007
Admins: grk10vq

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Left facing hand and finger crack that traverses under two roofs, following to the left.

Location

Starts behind a small bush towards the southern most edge of this wall (before it dips back into a shady treed area). There's an obvious block that looks ready to go at any moment... it's been there for awhile though.

Protection

Gear to 1.5"

Photos

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Dan Bachen
Helena, MT
Dan Bachen   Helena, MT
great route but the hornet convention at the top was a little problematic Mar 1, 2011
gregybn  
Paul was the MAN for a lot of years... a great trad climber who put up some real classics. The regular Fernie folks had a lot of fun climbing (and drinking beer) with him.
Block Dance was always a fun warm-up for other stuff around.
I put in Dance Direct... a few thin, bolt protected moves straight up the face, after the "block"... exit right to the crack when you start feeling insecure... I think the variation was rated 10a? Feb 7, 2008