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Routes in Holds Up Bluff North

Beer and Smear T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Block Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cripple Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fantasy Land T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fear and Smear T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seaweed Patch T,S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Clark 1983
Page Views: 233 total · 2/month
Shared By: SaraB on Dec 18, 2007
Admins: grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

Left facing hand and finger crack that traverses under two roofs, following to the left.

Location

Starts behind a small bush towards the southern most edge of this wall (before it dips back into a shady treed area). There's an obvious block that looks ready to go at any moment... it's been there for awhile though.

Protection

Gear to 1.5"

Photos

gregybn  
Paul was the MAN for a lot of years... a great trad climber who put up some real classics. The regular Fernie folks had a lot of fun climbing (and drinking beer) with him.
Block Dance was always a fun warm-up for other stuff around.
I put in Dance Direct... a few thin, bolt protected moves straight up the face, after the "block"... exit right to the crack when you start feeling insecure... I think the variation was rated 10a? Feb 7, 2008
Dan Bachen
Helena, MT
Dan Bachen   Helena, MT
great route but the hornet convention at the top was a little problematic Mar 1, 2011

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