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> Woodford Reserve
Five O'Clock
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A2 PG13
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Routes in The Woodford Reserve
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Five O'Clock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 270 ft (82 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 38.61827, -109.67517 |
| FA: | Sam Lightner, September 2007 |
| Page Views: | 699 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 2, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
P1 climb a deterioriating crack to a double bolt anchor. The crux is high and requires some Peckers. 80 feet.
P2 free clmb the corner with loose rock but really fun climbing. At the ledge slip back into the aiders and pull on a bolt, then a few aid moves, then two more bolts to get past the giant detached flake. A few more Lost Arrow placements and you hit the roof. Climb over it and follow the crack on mid size cams. Its probably possible to climb the corner, but its mankier rock. Eventually pull out of the aiders and free climb (5.9) the wider crack on soft holds. Pull over the lip and clip the anchor. The pitch is a rope stretcher, like 190 feet.
Rap the route… watch the ends.
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