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Routes in Mt. Ne'er-do-well

Bum Rush T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 875 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Trevor Bowman and Bryan Schmitz 8/26/07
Page Views: 783 total, 6/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Dec 1, 2007
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

The east face of Ne'er-do-well offers a low-commitment outing only 15 minutes from camp at Little Baron Lake with some good climbing.
Pitch 1: Follow a right-trending crack about 40' uphill from the most obvious diagonal crack. Finish up a left-facing dihedral to a small ledge with two trees. 5.7 180'
Pitch 2: Continue up the right-leaning thin crack past two small bulges and wander up and right on easier face to ledges below the main corner system. 5.9 215'
Pitch 3: Follow this major corner system up intermittent cracks and corners to a brushy belay shelf. 5.8 200'
Pitch 4: A right-leaning flaring chimney to the major ledge which bisects the entire face at about 4/5 height. 5.8 50'
Pitch 5: This wild pitch makes the route! Start up a blocky corner to a short awkward chimney. Continue up a clean, splitter fistcrack (5.10) to an alcove. Exit the alcove via a strenuous footless hand traverse into another fistcrack to a short chimney. 5.11a 215'
500' of 3rd and 4th class scrambling up slabs and blocks lead to the unique chockstone summit.

Location

The east face is a short hike north of Little Baron Lake. Contour up through some trees and cross a talus field to the base of the face. Bum Rush starts uphill and about 40' left of the most obvious diagonal crack system on the lower face. To descend: scramble north a short distance from the summit and 4th class down steps and ramps on the upper east face. Work back slightly south and you should end up in a tight, chossy chute with a montrous chockstone partway down. One spectacular free rappel (single rope) over the chockstone and more careful scrambling takes you back to the base of the wall near the beginning of the route.

Protection

A double set of cams through #3 and one #4, a single set of stoppers, 70m rope is handy, especially for the final pitch.

Photos

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