Type: Boulder
FA: Horan or Wilford maybe?
Page Views: 139 total · 1/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Nov 15, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is my favorite crack at Carter Lake. It has all the makings of a fine boulder climb:

First, it starts inverted, so plop your butt down on the ground and jam those hands and feet up into the crack.

Second, it really hurts if you do it wrong, so you can go home to your wife with proud, raw, bloody paws to show for your efforts. Finding the right jams as you turn the roof are critical to keep from finding where all the pain pressure points are in your hands. There are pebbles and edges that just hate you for being there.

Third, the crux comes at the top when you are feeling the pump. The crack isn't all that long, but turning the roof, finding descent feet (find a way to keep them jammed for that Indian Creek Effect), and keeping your hand jam intact in the overhanging, slightly right leaning crack is taxing. No cheating! Keep those jams all the way to the top, no matter how alluring those edges look.

Call it a day and scamper off left, or mix it up a bit and finish right on the top out for Areteach.


Obvious hand crack on the West face of Lone Star Boulder.


Boulder pad is great.