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Routes in Duke's Wall

Bosch Hog S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
General Lee, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Good Ol' Boys S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pet Cemetary S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pumpin' Puff Muffins T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sea of Lichen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Brian Beavers, 2003
Page Views: 2,909 total · 22/month
Shared By: Spencer Anderson on Sep 27, 2007 with updates from Ken Duncan
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

This route is steep, ugly, scary and frustrating. Not for the faint of heart. If you work up the courage you'll need to be fast to avoid death from the evil pump. One rest spot, grip for the good (but not good enough) holds and steep rock technique are needed for survival. Crux comes when clipping the 6th bolt. Watch out for some lose and dirty rock, which may degrade how many stars the route should get but I'm optimistic. Watch out on the ramp leading up the "actual route" it requires more technique than one might think and decking could be a problem if one falls from the top.

Location

This is the third route from the right on the steep wall that is just south from the main crystal wall face. See the photos.

Protection

8 bolts and chain anchors.

Photos

beavs
Ft. Collins, CO
  5.12a
beavs   Ft. Collins, CO
  5.12a
This route is called The General Lee, and the description is appropriate. If you have trouble with the start you may want to reconsider - what looms above is not dangerous but it does pack a punch. With more ascents it could become a Poudre "classic". For those who want to up the ante, the variation to the left (Good Ol' Boys) is also worthy. Oct 10, 2007
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
 
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
 
I agree with beavs, this route is great and not dangerous (that's not what I meant in my description), it just looks intimidating and needs to clean up a bit more. When we worked this route over two weeks, with about a dozen total ascents, we got most of dirt and lose rock off. Oct 13, 2007
Sam Miller
Boulder, CO
Sam Miller   Boulder, CO
What does Good Old Boys go at? If you end up with your feet in the offwidth to the left, is that off route? Mar 23, 2009
beavs
Ft. Collins, CO
  5.12a
beavs   Ft. Collins, CO
  5.12a
Gool Ol' Boys is around 12b/c if you use the OW/prow after the last bolt (which has been the "standard" line to this point). If you stay direct all the way to the anchor it is significantly harder (not exactly sure how hard). Mar 23, 2009
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
 
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
 
Did this route again. Still really good. My favorite at the Crystal Wall. Reminds me a bit of Rife with the pocket, flat jugs and pinches. Sweet. Almost four stars for me. Jul 24, 2009
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
Lizzy Scully   Lyons, Colorado
Kudos to the people who put the work into cleaning this route. Good job! Fun stuff. Sep 18, 2011
Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12b
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12b
Three stars for sure. Shorter than the routes at upper echelon, but super sustained. I'd say that it is solid 5.12b - harder than ODK and maybe tougher than Tailspin. A couple bits of loose rock, but pretty clean overall. Basically 30 feet of thoughtful stemming to a large ledge - then straight into 50 feet of pumpy, overhanging climbing on sloped pinches and blocky 2 or 3 finger pockets. Classic. Nov 6, 2013
Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
Today, I almost pulled off a loose bowling ball from the anchor area onto my belayer. Managed to stop it and prevent it from falling. Approx. 40lbs+ that I was able to lower with me. Be careful up top - plenty of dirt and growth in the fractures that makes pieces (and bowling balls) easy to dislodge.

That said, first burn on it today - awesome route. Really like the flow/moves just wish the junk bands between the holds weren't so brittle. Thanks for bolting! May 22, 2016

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