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Routes in Stone Fort (aka Little Rock City)

(new) Mane Event, The V5-6 6C+
7-10 Split V1+ 5
A Face in the Crowd V7 7A+
Ace of Spades V8-9 7B+
Aneardon Low V8- 7B
Art of the Vogi V4 6B
Art of the Vogi Left V4+ 6B+
Barn Door 2000 V12+ 8A+
Bear Hug Arete V5 6C
Bedwetters V9 7C
Bent V6 7A
Big Much, The V4 6B
Big Wheel V5 6C
Biggie Shorty V10 7C+
Black Carpet V4 6B
Black Planet V4 6B
Blacksmith, The V9 7C
Blind Spot V7 7A+
Blithering Idiot V0 4
Block and Tackle V2 5+
Bonesaw V5 6C
Booger V0+ 4+
Boogie Man-tle V3 6A
Boogie Man-tle Extension V4- 6B
Bootleg V5 6C
Boro Traverse V6 7A
Bosley Traverse V9- 7C
Bowling Ball V1 V1 5
Brian's Brain V1 5
Brotherhood V7-8 7B
Bumper's V6 7A
Castaway V7 7A+
Celestial Mechanics V7 7A+
Chicken V0 4
Chronic, The V6-7 7A+
Cinderella V7 7A+
Clarence Bowater Survival V3 6A
Cleopatra V8 7B
Cleopatra-Cinderella Traverse V9 7C
Collateral V2 5+
Cormany Wall V1-2 5
Corner Crack V0 4
Costume Rings V0- 4-
Country Redneck Bitch V5 6C
Coven, The V5 6C
Crack of doom V4 6B
Crackerjack V1 5
Crescent Slab (Crescent Direct) V7 7A+
Crescent, The V1 5
Crunk V3 6A
Crystal Ball V5 6C
Cuervo V1 5
Cutpurse, The V4-5 6B+
Cyclops V6 7A
Cyclops (Stand Up) V4 6B
Daddy Loves V2 5+
Deception V7 7A+
Deciduous Enema, The V4 6B
Destroyer V3- 6A
Devils cabana boy V6 7A
Dice V2 5+
Diesel Power V5+ 6C+
Dihedral Crack V0 4
Dis V2 5+
Disparate Impact V10 7C+
Divide, The V3 6A
Dodge Swinger V1 5
Dr. Atkinson V8 7B
Drag Me Down V1 5
Dragon Back V1 5
Dragon Lady V4 6B
Dragon Traverse V0 4
Dragon Traverse Loop V1 5
Drumm Problem V5 6C
Dunky Doobie V10 7C+
Easy Does It V0- 4-
El Camino V5 6C
El Capitan V2 5+
Elephant Riders V3 6A
Faceplant V1 5
Fame V6 7A
Farrah's Fawcet V0 4
Fat Cat V5 6C
Fate V4 6B PG13
Fatigue Syndrome V8 7B
Feature, The V1 5
Finish Your Homework V5 6C
Fire V7 7A+
Fire Crack Flake V1 5
Fish Market Traverse V3 6A
Fish Market, The V4 6B
Fish Tank, The V0 4
Five and Dime V0 4
Fixer V4 6B
Florax, The V7 7A+
Flying High V11 8A PG13
Font Arete V5 6C
Formula 1 V3 6A
Fortune V6 7A
Fromundathunda V5 6C
Funhouse V1 5
Fury V6 7A
Galaxy 5000 V5 6C
Genghis Khan, Right V6 7A
Gengis Khan V5 6C
Get Your Groove On V6 7A
Graham Crackers V1 5
Green Machine, The V4 6B
Grimace V8- 7B
Gutter Ball V2 5+
Hairy Underclings V3 6A
Hand me down V0 4
Heroin V7 7A+
High Five V11 8A
High Times V1 5
High on Crack V1 5
Hoops V8 7B
Hot Java V2-3 5+
House of Leaves V8 7B PG13
Hulk, The V6 7A
Human Chew Toy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
I Think I Can V8+ 7B+
IncredArete Sit V3 6A
Incredarete V1 5
Incredarete Sit Left V4 6B
Instinct V7 7A+
Instinct Low V10 7C+
Interplanetary Escape V9 7C
Jerry's Kids V7 7A+
Junky V7 7A+
Jupiter V3 6A
Karmageddon V3 6A
Karne V5 6C
Keel Hauled V3 6A
King Cobra V10 7C+
King James V10 7C+
King of the Castle V8 7B PG13
Kingpin V6 7A
Latin for Daggers V5 6C
Law, The V11 8A
Left Wing V6 7A
Life is Goodlett V6 7A
Little German Girl, The V1 5
Long Day Traverse V3 6A
Low Constitution V0 4
Mane Event, The V4 6B
Manute Bol V6- 7A
Mescal V4 6B
Mescal Direct V3 6A
Midway V7 7A+
Minerva V5 6C
Mizzen Mast V1 5
Mono Doigt, The V5 6C
Monster V4- 6B
Monster Extension V4+ 6B+
Moss Man V1 5
Mother Thrutch Right Sit V5 6C
Mother Trucker V4 6B
Mousetrap V2 5+ R
Murfreesboro Blues V0 4
Mystery Groove V4 6B
Mystery Machine V3 6A
Needless Things V0- 4-
New Sensations V10-11 8A
Nick of Time V1 5
Now and Zen V7 7A+
Odds My Bodkins V3 6A
One Eye V4 6B
Oracle V4 6B
Out of Africa/Face in the Crowd V6+ 7A
Pancake Mantle V2 5+
Picturesque V0 4
Pinch the Loaf V3 6A
Pinch, The V7 7A+
Pittman Arete V2 5+ PG13
Plank Walker V0+ 4+
Pleiades V4 6B
Plinko V0 4
Pocket Pool V4 6B
Prison Planet V4 6B
Psychosomatic V9 7C
Pure Rock Fury V6 7A
Rage V5- 6C
Rail Rider V4 6B
Red House V7 7A+
Red House Extension, The V7-8 7B
Red Tape V0 4
Reflections V10 7C+ PG13
Relic, The V4 6B
Rely on Gimmicks V3 6A
Rib, The V1 5
Ribcage V3- 6A
Right Wing V7- 7A+
Robbing The Tooth Fairy V9 7C
Roscoe V2 5+
Roscoe Extended V3 6A
Ruby Roo V2 5+
Runnel Funnel V2 5+
Runnelphobia V4 6B
Sacrifice V2 5+
Seam Eliminate V3 6A
Shaggy V1-2 5
Shield, The V12 8A+
Shits and giggles V0 4
Shiver Me Timbers V6 7A
Shiver Me Timbers Direct V8 7B
Shotgun V6 7A
Showtime V1 5
Shrine, The V2 5+
Sick'em Low V6 7A
Simply Irresistible V8 7B
Sister Sarah V3 6A
Skeleton Crew V4 6B
Slabatical V0 4
Slap Happy V5 6C
Slice V4 6B
Slow Poke V1 5
Slow and Low V4 6B
Smear Campaign V3 6A
Smog V2 5+
Smoking Jacket V1-2 5
Snap Decision V3 6A
Soapmakers V2+ 5+
South America V3 6A
Spacegrass V2 5+
Spank the Baby V7 7A+
Spanky V8 7B
Spare V0 4
Split V1 5
Spyro Gyro V7 7A+
Stand, The V1 5
Steam Roller V5 6C
Sternum V5 6C
Storming the Castle V1 5
Strike V3 6A
Sunnie Rose V4 6B
Super Mario V4 6B
Super Mario Extension V6 7A
Swingers V3-4 6A+
Tall Crack V2 5+ PG13
Tennessee Thong V7 7A+
These Feel Like Your Sister's V3 6A
Thundafrumunda V4 6B
Tight Like That V3 6A
Tire Knockers V3 6A
Tom Jones V0 4
Trailer Hitch V5 6C
Train Wreck V4 6B
Tristar V4 6B
Turdcutter V7-8 7B
Turtle Tracks V3 6A
Turtle Tracks Direct V2 5+
Twin Cracks V1 5
Two Can Sam V3 6A
Two Shoes Jack V4 6B
Ugly Roof V8 7B
Ultimate Fan Experience, The V4 6B
Uncle Punchy V1 5
Underfling V3 6A
Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0+ 4+
Unusual Suspect V4 6B
Up High, Down Low, Too Slow V10 7C+
V0 (The Back Wall) V0 4
V1 (The Back Wall) V1 5
V1 (slice and dice boulder) V1 5
V3 (The Back Wall) V3 6A
Vlad the Inhaler V1 5
Vulcans Do It With Straight Faces V2 5+
Warm Up Arete V2 5+
Warp Door V4 6B
Watch Your Back V11+ 8A R
Watermelon slab V6-7 7A+
Wave, The V6 7A
White Chili V8 7B
White Face V10 7C+
White Trash V5 6C
Witch's Hat V4 6B
high tide V6 7A
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,106 total · 53/month
Shared By: Kevin Detlor on Sep 24, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Easy, one move wonder crack problem.


In the corridor area. The trail will come right by it. Trust me, you won't miss this beautiful line.


Pad & spotter


Not a V3, more like V5. Oct 3, 2007
Gregg   Englewood
GREAT problem. V2-3 if you know how to finger and hand jam. Give it a try no matter what. Jul 9, 2008
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
Still hard, even if you know how to jam, and suggesting that Tennessee climbers don't know how to crack climb is ignorant and stupid. This would be 5.12 if if were a route. V4-5ish. Jan 3, 2010
Gregg   Englewood
Didn't mean to imply someone from TN can't crack climb....Grades are subjective. In my opinion it would be easy 5.11 at T-wall. Who cares problem. Jun 8, 2010
Golden, Colorado
willeslinger   Golden, Colorado
definitely v4-v5, I can climb 5.10 cracks, and this problem kicked my ass Sep 13, 2010
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
I agree on the v5. The crux would be right home on any 5.12 trad line. Crack of Doom might be v3/5.11 at Mt. Woodson, but that place is sandbagged! Jan 24, 2011
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
I was thinking probably 11b or c on this which translates to V3...I mean, don't get me wrong, I'll take it at V5 all day long ;) Feb 10, 2011
Jeremy Hand
Northern VA
Jeremy Hand   Northern VA
Atypical problem for the boulderfield. Trust the finger lock and stab for the hand jam to advance to the great crimp.
Probably a walk in the park for most tradheads out there. Aug 23, 2012
JD Borgeson
JD Borgeson  
I did it by gastoning the flaring part and only used one finger lock near the top, which getting into I think was the crux. a good handjam above that leads to an easy topout Dec 15, 2014
Love the discussion. No US grading system works great for grading short cracks. The best you can say, I think, is like Travis Eiseman is quoted as saying in the guide, "that would be like the crux on a 5.X route". Even that doesn't work very well, bc the grade of a trad pitch has a lot to do with pump and sometimes the additional pump of placing gear, depending on the local mindset.

For Crack of Doom, a boulderer with little crack experience could make this a v6. And a crack climber with little boulder experience could feel that this is easier than the steep rounded bulgy v3s here. Sure, this could be the crux on an 11b trad pitch (or easily could be the crux on a 12a/b trad pitch if it was pumpy). But you can't translate 5.X trad grades to v-grades like you can 5.X sport to v-grades. Because 5.11 trad is goddamned fierce compared to 5.11 sport.

It's a little like Earth Wind and Fire at HP40. To me, that thing feels a lot like the 10a first pitch on Serenity Crack, but that doesn't mean that it isn't a v3/4 boulder.

Ultimately, our grading systems just aren't built for this type of climb. With some trad, sport, and bouldering experience behind me: could be the right-off-the-deck crux of an 11b trad pitch, or a 12a trad pitch with a pump. Could be the crux on a 11d or 12a sport climb. It felt about as hard to flash as most v4s around the SE. And would be a 5.9 on the Yosemite slab scale and 5.8+ on the offwidth scale. :) Feb 12, 2015

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