Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,300 total · 53/month
Shared By: Kevin Detlor on Sep 24, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

Easy, one move wonder crack problem.

Location

In the corridor area. The trail will come right by it. Trust me, you won't miss this beautiful line.

Protection

Pad & spotter

Photos

hrtmnstrfr
  V5
hrtmnstrfr  
  V5
Not a V3, more like V5. Oct 3, 2007
Gregg
Englewood
Gregg   Englewood
GREAT problem. V2-3 if you know how to finger and hand jam. Give it a try no matter what. Jul 9, 2008
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Still hard, even if you know how to jam, and suggesting that Tennessee climbers don't know how to crack climb is ignorant and stupid. This would be 5.12 if if were a route. V4-5ish. Jan 3, 2010
Gregg
Englewood
Gregg   Englewood
Didn't mean to imply someone from TN can't crack climb....Grades are subjective. In my opinion it would be easy 5.11 at T-wall. Who cares though....fun problem. Jun 8, 2010
willeslinger
Golden, Colorado
willeslinger   Golden, Colorado
definitely v4-v5, I can climb 5.10 cracks, and this problem kicked my ass Sep 13, 2010
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
  V4+
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
  V4+
I agree on the v5. The crux would be right home on any 5.12 trad line. Crack of Doom might be v3/5.11 at Mt. Woodson, but that place is sandbagged! Jan 24, 2011
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
 
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
 
I was thinking probably 11b or c on this which translates to V3...I mean, don't get me wrong, I'll take it at V5 all day long ;) Feb 10, 2011
Jeremy Hand
Northern VA
  V4-5
Jeremy Hand   Northern VA
  V4-5
Atypical problem for the boulderfield. Trust the finger lock and stab for the hand jam to advance to the great crimp.
Probably a walk in the park for most tradheads out there. Aug 23, 2012
JD Borgeson
  V4
JD Borgeson  
  V4
I did it by gastoning the flaring part and only used one finger lock near the top, which getting into I think was the crux. a good handjam above that leads to an easy topout Dec 15, 2014
ferrells  
 
Love the discussion. No US grading system works great for grading short cracks. The best you can say, I think, is like Travis Eiseman is quoted as saying in the guide, "that would be like the crux on a 5.X route". Even that doesn't work very well, bc the grade of a trad pitch has a lot to do with pump and sometimes the additional pump of placing gear, depending on the local mindset.

For Crack of Doom, a boulderer with little crack experience could make this a v6. And a crack climber with little boulder experience could feel that this is easier than the steep rounded bulgy v3s here. Sure, this could be the crux on an 11b trad pitch (or easily could be the crux on a 12a/b trad pitch if it was pumpy). But you can't translate 5.X trad grades to v-grades like you can 5.X sport to v-grades. Because 5.11 trad is goddamned fierce compared to 5.11 sport.

It's a little like Earth Wind and Fire at HP40. To me, that thing feels a lot like the 10a first pitch on Serenity Crack, but that doesn't mean that it isn't a v3/4 boulder.

Ultimately, our grading systems just aren't built for this type of climb. With some trad, sport, and bouldering experience behind me: could be the right-off-the-deck crux of an 11b trad pitch, or a 12a trad pitch with a pump. Could be the crux on a 11d or 12a sport climb. It felt about as hard to flash as most v4s around the SE. And would be a 5.9 on the Yosemite slab scale and 5.8+ on the offwidth scale. :) Feb 12, 2015