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Routes in Lower Blacktail Butte

Arch Direct - Waterstreak S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arch, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
As You Wish S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blacktail Boulder Traverse 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V5 6C
Do the Right Thing S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Higher Education S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inconceivable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jingus Road S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Kehough Cling S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Leftovers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Times Flies When You're Alive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waterstreak S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, Alpine, 85 ft
FA: Sam Lightner Jr.
Page Views: 1,599 total · 12/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Aug 16, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Fun movement that flows really well. People seem to find different cruxes, but one thing all agree on is the pump that will hit you in the last 15 feet! A great combo of technique and endurance.

Location

Route is the second line right of Waterstreak. The Arch Direct is the line between the two, following the Arch feature directly rather than going in to the arch from the right.

Protection

Bolts, clip-and-lower anchors.

Photos

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Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Actually, I did the F.A. on this. Rex of course could have gotten it but he gave the route to me. Nice of him. Nov 22, 2008
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
This thing felt more 12c/d than 12a. Definitely sandbagged. Would venture to say the climbing is sustained 12a with little to no rest. Nov 26, 2013
telepaulk
  5.12a
telepaulk  
  5.12a
The Arch is super fingery and sustained, but compared to the other BTB routes 12a seams fare to me. Blitzkrieg feels easier at 11d and Waterstreak is harder at 12b. Great route and a must do if you climb the grade. May 20, 2016

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