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The Arch

5.12a, Sport, Alpine, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 29 votes
FA: Sam Lightner Jr.
Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Blacktail Butte > Lower Blacktail Butte

Description

Fun movement that flows really well. People seem to find different cruxes, but one thing all agree on is the pump that will hit you in the last 15 feet! A great combo of technique and endurance.

Location

Route is the second line right of Waterstreak. The Arch Direct is the line between the two, following the Arch feature directly rather than going in to the arch from the right.

Protection

Bolts, clip-and-lower anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] Actually, I did the F.A. on this. Rex of course could have gotten it but he gave the route to me. Nice of him. Nov 22, 2008
Will McFarland
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] This thing felt more 12c/d than 12a. Definitely sandbagged. Would venture to say the climbing is sustained 12a with little to no rest. Nov 26, 2013
telepaulk
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The Arch is super fingery and sustained, but compared to the other BTB routes 12a seams fare to me. Blitzkrieg feels easier at 11d and Waterstreak is harder at 12b. Great route and a must do if you climb the grade. May 20, 2016
Caleb Hunger
Jackson
 
[Hide Comment] An easier start with more dynamic moves gets you onto the arch feature further up than the direct bolt line. The crux is definitely high up when it comes time to get off the finger seem arch feature and push to the chains.

A very fun way to top the arch without having to survive the pump that is the direct start.
The feet on the crux section up high seemed to have started polishing a lot more over the past few years. Jul 15, 2023