The Golden Monkey
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.30342, -105.52275 |
| FA: | Paul Foster, Bob Jasperson, Bernard Gillett |
| Page Views: | 3,840 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Jasperson on Aug 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area WAS closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area WAS blocked off. That has been rescinded.
Description
This indistinct line begins about 25 feet left of the huge buttress in the middle of the Upper Great Face, between the Kor-Northcutt on the right and The Big Steep on the left, and finishes with the beautiful headwall beneath the summit.
Pitch 1: Turn a small roof on the left or right (gear) and climb past two bolts to a ledge. Continue upwards (gear) past two more bolts (crux) to a left-facing corner that defines the left side of a "V"-shaped wedge (the right side of the "V" is the obvious slot on the Kor-Northcutt). Climb this corner and stretch the rope to the lowest point of a large ledge system that traverses the upper region of the face (5.10b/c R; 200 feet).
Pitch 2: Climb the vertical headwall above to anchors (sporty 5.9+; 10 bolts; bring midrange cams for placements above the bolts; 110 feet).
Descent: Rap to The Big Steep anchors (slightly north) on the large ledge system. A single 60-meter rope just barely reaches these anchors -- tie a knot. Rap again to another set of anchors on The Big Steep (single rope) or to the ground (double).



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