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Routes in Happy Boulder

Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Tim Clifford
Page Views: 3,167 total, 25/month
Shared By: Tavis Ricksecker on Jul 4, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

On the left side of the steep south face of the Happy Boulder.

Sit-start under the lip of the small cave, under or just left of the big hueco. Start with hands either on the thread hold or the outside of the hueco. Climb up the hueco to a big move to fair left-hand pocket and right-hand crimp (using any of a number of tricky sequences and lots of core tension!) Then, launch up the steep face and catch that perfect juggy hand-sized hueco just below the lip. Don't blow the topout. Your abs might be sore after working on this absolutely classic problem!

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Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  V8
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  V8
It used to be soft at the grade, but then the first right crimp after the threads broke a bit and this makes releasing the knee bar harder. Mar 4, 2015
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
cbtacy
  V8
cbtacy  
  V8
drop knee. drop knee. knee bar. toe hook. wild jump.

even after a few hold have broken, this is still one of the more fun problems out there.

for the jump... if you're tall it's easiest to go left hand. if you're short, however, it's easiest to really crank down on the miserable left hand crimp and go right hand.

oh... if you latch the jug you REALLY want to control the swing. flying off that hold after the swing is a good way to get hurt.

SUPER fun.

(oh... and to those who say it's a height dependent jump problem... I'm 5'5"). Aug 11, 2013
Ben Snyder
CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
  V8
Ben Snyder   CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
  V8
Disco Diva starts in the thread (hueco), not below it. Felt like hard V8 to me, but I went righthanded to the jug on the send just before realizing that going up left is significantly easier. Mar 26, 2008