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Routes in Rock Island I

Destroyer TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Independent T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown II aka The Broken Wing TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: a drytooling climber
Page Views: 979 total, 8/month
Shared By: Chris O'Connor on Jun 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Route finding is key on this line, because the gear is a little sparse. Find the two bolt anchor on the NW side of the Rock Island, and zig zag up placing gear where you can. Be careful as some of the rock seems a little loose.

Location

This is to the right of Destroyer on the NW face. It is closer to the parking area than the other routes. The anchor bolts are a little bit harder to see than the anchors on Independent. If you take a few steps back towards the river and look hard, you should be able to find them.

Protection

Small gear, nuts and cams.

Photos

Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
  5.7
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
  5.7
Interesting, but a little contrived and grungy with a lot of groveling. The holds on this route are also a big contrast from the routes elsewhere on the rock.

As for finding the route, start at the awkward bulge about 10' left of a huge iron eye-bolt at ground level. Moving straight up from the eye-bolt gets you to a much lower pair of cold shuts on what looks like an easier line. Jul 6, 2009
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
 
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
 
To lead this you end up taking a rather unpleasant line in order to place protection. A more direct and much more enjoyable route can be taken with the safety of a top rope. Apr 28, 2008