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Routes in Rock Island I

Destroyer TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Independent T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown II aka The Broken Wing TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Type: TR
FA: Cisco Manzo, 1996
Page Views: 1,864 total, 10/month
Shared By: Cisco on Sep 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This route is actually on Rock Island 1, and is pretty much right in front of the bridge. This route is also very easy to toprope, but you will need long runners to reach over the lip from the anchors.The starting point for this is about 10m from the 5.7 route called Independent Route which is in Fred Knapp's Front Range Topropes. Start under the roof, moving quickly left and up the outside edge of the roof, reach up to a good hold with your left hand and head for the sloping, right-angling crack, do a hand over hand, and then a strenuous pullup to an undercling. From here, it gets easier to the top. The crux comes at putting in gear in the crack, but it is right at the start. This could probably be bouldered, but it would be a bold undertaking.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and cams.

Photos

Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Was on this today. Pulled off a couple pieced of dangerous choss that must have loosened up over the winter because I don't remember them last summer. I don't think they effect the grade unless you climb it substantially differently than I do. Adds a foot after the crux, but there's another good foot there anyway.

Still feel like 10c is a good grade. It's essentially a V3 boulder problem that's 15 feet off the ground and surrounded by 5.7ish stuff. Maybe unaesthetic overall but I really dig the crux move - sequencey and powerful. May 6, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Kinda unaesthetic. Jun 25, 2008
Caleb Phillips
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Caleb Phillips   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Yeah. The thing is, it's a really short problem. After the pullup to the flake, the rest of the climb is 5.7. The two or three crux moves are solid 5.11 (IMHO), but given how short it is, I think 10c isn't a bad rating. Jun 24, 2008
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Maybe something broke - this felt a good deal harder than 10c. Awkward and probably harder for those with bigger fingers. Apr 26, 2008
Cisco
 
Cisco  
 
You're right, Big Wave, actually the rating I posted is what it was before I watched (in horror) some Frenchie with a hammer pull loose a piece of the old handhold because he thought it would fall loose under his weight. It is probably in the stiff 5.10-5.10a class now. When he pulled the rock loose, it created a nice foothold that made a nice rest that was previously not there. Sep 26, 2002
I feel this route goes at a stiff 5.9+. A strong head and good tech sense should bring ya thru the crux w/ a bit of ease. It really reminds me of the brillant routes in N.M.; Questa dome comes to mind. Sep 25, 2002