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Routes in Hole in the Rock Area

Seraph T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Smoot Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ R
Type: Trad, Aid, 45 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, and Johathan Smoot, 1981
Page Views: 891 total · 7/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 24, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb, though tiny, still take some thought, planning , skill, time, and patience. At one point , you have to climb through a cave with lots of bat-shit. I placed a pin or two, and also took one very large cam;...it's steep too. It's a cool summit, with a very short approach, and even though the climbing aint' *****,...it's still fun and challenging enough to keep your attention.

Location

In the parking lot , east of the highway, 14 miles South of Moab. Near the tourist stop Hole-in-the-Rock.

Protection

Maybe a few pins, a rack of cams, and at least one very large cam.

Photos

Bill Grasse
Carbondale, CO.
Bill Grasse   Carbondale, CO.
Matt P and I climbed this (Matt leading) via Todd's route on 3/15/08. The anchors on top consisted of a small tree and a pin (could use a little TLC... It is a pretty small tree) but we did add new cordage and a rap ring. I'd say bring some webbing just in case. Fun end to a great weekend. Mar 16, 2008
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
oops........could be. (that bat-shit section was a bit odd...)...thanks, Brad. May 26, 2007
Todd,

I think you may have done a different route... and maybe a FA?

The Smoot route starts from the saddle behind the tower and begins with friction up to the bedding seam. From there it traverses left about 5 feet and then goes straight up a thin splitter to the top.

Was the cave that you're talking about facing the Rest Area bathroom building? If so, then well done. I climbed up into that cave and decided that the big block forming the roof looked too sketchy. I climb on the B-team though. :) May 25, 2007

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