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Routes in 6. Wayne Manor

Alfred S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Batty T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Bird Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat Woman S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Bird T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flying Squirrel S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frankenstone S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mad Hatter S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mariposa T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mixed Bag T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Era S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Penguin, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Slab-monger T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wrendevous T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jay Foley
Page Views: 71 total · 1/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on May 21, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Crux above at orange overhanging face. Nice rest beforehand with opportunity to admire Frankenstone in-situ.

Location

Midway between Black Crack and Big Scary Corner

Protection

Bolted, chain anchor

Photos

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Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Starting moves are hard, but interesting. I really enjoyed the first 40 feet of climbing on great rock. Then the awkward mantle before the upper crux is not too bad, and worth doing, as long as you are willing to pull on the suspect block. Dont worry, its kept from sliding out by a series of 3 bolts, one of which has a hanger on it for your draw. Thankfully, it keeps your biner from being crossloaded, but you will probably want to use a sling instead of a dogbone as it will hang over a sharp 90 degree corner. Movement is still fun, and climb is worth doing up to this point.

Upper crux is where they talk about it being a chipped crux; you can either lower off from the leaver biner here or try your luck at some odd, hard movement. I think there is a hidden chipped hold high on the arete out right, but you can also do some V8+ moves straight up the face to the left, with decaying foot chips for feet. It was a low-percentage move for me. Tried the big throw a few times, with clean falls, then called it good for now. It would be sweet if a second bolt were added here and a lower version of the route could be done at 12-, with the option of climbing another 15 feet of super hard moves to upper anchor. Oct 2, 2017

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