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Routes in Mt. Helen

Northwest Ridge of Tower 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower 1 Gully WI3+
Tower Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Ice, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ray Jacquot and Bill Lindberg, 1971
Page Views: 7,141 total, 56/month
Shared By: Nate Furman on May 2, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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The Tower 1 Gully on Mt. Helen is a beautiful ten-pitch moderate ice route up an ever-narrowing couloir. The top 300 feet provide the crux; the climb steepens up to 60 degrees until the climb tops out in a notch. Climbers will find more snow in the early season (i.e. June/July) and ice later in the season (Aug/early Sept). A final pitch of rock (about 5.5) will take climbers to the top of Tower One. The view from the top-out is breathtaking.

The first five pitches of the climb are quite moderate; when the route is about half way completed it gradually begins to steepen.


Descent can be accomplished via judicious routefinding and rappelling down the backside (south facing) broken slabs to reach a couloir. There are rappel slings every so often; prudent climbers might consider bringing sling material to replace the old webbing. Downclimb or rappel the south-facing couloir and return to the base.


For me this is a two ice-tool route. Some might me comfortable using just one, but those people are not me.

A rack of 6-8 ice screws, 8 stoppers, and 8 cams should suffice. Most anchors can be plugged into rock on the sides of the gully.
Kai Larson
Sandy, Utah
Kai Larson   Sandy, Utah
Climbed Sept 27, 2014.

Conditions were mostly perfect neve, with consolidated snow and a bit of water ice here and there.

2 screws and a rock rack would be adequate, as there is plenty of rock protection on the margins of the climb.

We rapped down the route. Ice wasn't good for V-Threads, so we left gear (mostly nuts welded into cracks with our picks) for our rappel stations.

Ice climbing difficulty is very conditions dependent, and in the conditions we found it (mostly thunker neve and very good water ice) it was no harder than WI3-

We had 60 meter ropes and did it in 7 pitches, with the last pitch only a half pitch. First 4 pitches are very casual. Doesn't start to get steep until the top.

Fun route.

Trip report (September 27, 2014) can be found, HERE: Sep 29, 2014
Palmer, AK
dfrancom   Palmer, AK
Tried climbing this in early october 2012. I tried to do this route in 3 days from Elk Heart Park, bad idea! I was out of shape for sure! We ended up climbing the main couloir on Mt Helen. But the ice was fantastic. When I looked up the Tower 1 ice gully I could see a rock band around the second pitch. Looks like part of the ice is melted out. Who knows what the top is like. Here is a link to a video of our trip. Oct 22, 2012
This is a great climb. Just enough adventure to keep you focused but not enough to be desperate. My partner and I did it many, many moons ago. He broke a rigid Chouinard crampon in the middle of the crux and had to finish out with it hanging from his ankle. We walked off the North face with no raps. A lot of work and a little chossy but in those days raps were last resort. Feb 2, 2009
Josh Tapp
Josh Tapp   Leadville
Hi there,
I climbed this route early september, and it is one of the most beautiful moderate ice routes I have ever climbed. The reason I am posting this, is because the descent info should be updated. My climbing partner and I started at around 12:00 and did not top out until around 8:00. Let me back track a little here! When you actually do get to the gully, be sure when you take the right to go up the gully, that you climb the left side of it. The protection on the right is almost non-existent for nut or cam placement. I would recommend you follow this left wall all the way up. Back to the descent. So, we finally top out, and we are getting ready to rappel. There was no sling at the top, no worries, there must be some down a bit further we thought. It turns out there were no rap slings anywhere. We were rapping off of prusicks rapped around chicken heads, snow bollards etc. We did bring extra webbing slings, but eventually ran out, and there are super sketchy rappells going down the south couloir. Here is what I suggest. Rap down the north gully (the climb itself), using Abolokov v threads, and sling some of the pinches. This route is much safer, with rock fall hazards being pretty low, and no overhanging rappells (opposite side I counted 3 free hanging rappells). This is, in my opinion, a much safer way to descend, especially if you are tired and have had a long day on the climb. I hope this helps, oh yeah if you find a 22cm BD turbo express ice screw please mail it to me, I will give you an address. Oct 12, 2008
Larry   SoAZ
Of course, one could continue to the summit of Mt. Helen in addition to, or instead of, Tower 1. Jan 30, 2008