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Routes in Mt. Helen

Northwest Ridge of Tower 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tower 1 Gully WI3+
Tower Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Hannibal, Turville, Wheeler 1974
Page Views: 768 total · 21/month
Shared By: C. Trimble on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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This beautiful route follows the prominent NW Ridge of Tower 1. The Kelsey Guide lists a grade of III 5.8 A1, but we were able to free climb at a somewhat moderate grade. The route starts just right of the bottom of NW Face Right Gully/Tower 1 gully, then continues right up the crest. The upper section is beautiful and exposed. We simul-climbed the lower-angled bottom half, then pitched out the crest. Very cool, should be climbed more! Nice for a shorter (but chilly) outing when the weather looks iffy for longer routes, or as a more difficult & interesting start to Tower Ridge.


Northwest Ridge of Tower 1. Descend by rapping/downclimbing the lower section of Tower Ridge.


standard rack


I would agree that this is a great route. Did it sometime in Aug 2014. We soloed a bit of the bottom part and then lead 6 long pitches, each of them ending on perfect belay ledges. The 5.10 crux was a difficult to protect boulder problem off one of the largest ledges. Other than that it was great 5.8. We descended the SW ridge with 2 double rope raps (prob not necessary) and then downclimbed. I think it would be a great day to link it into Helen's summit. Aug 19, 2016

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