Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Hannibal, Turville, Wheeler 1974
Page Views: 817 total · 20/month
Shared By: C. Trimble on Aug 25, 2015
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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This beautiful route follows the prominent NW Ridge of Tower 1. The Kelsey Guide lists a grade of III 5.8 A1, but we were able to free climb at a somewhat moderate grade. The route starts just right of the bottom of NW Face Right Gully/Tower 1 gully, then continues right up the crest. The upper section is beautiful and exposed. We simul-climbed the lower-angled bottom half, then pitched out the crest. Very cool, should be climbed more! Nice for a shorter (but chilly) outing when the weather looks iffy for longer routes, or as a more difficult & interesting start to Tower Ridge.


Northwest Ridge of Tower 1. Descend by rapping/downclimbing the lower section of Tower Ridge.


standard rack


I would agree that this is a great route. Did it sometime in Aug 2014. We soloed a bit of the bottom part and then lead 6 long pitches, each of them ending on perfect belay ledges. The 5.10 crux was a difficult to protect boulder problem off one of the largest ledges. Other than that it was great 5.8. We descended the SW ridge with 2 double rope raps (prob not necessary) and then downclimbed. I think it would be a great day to link it into Helen's summit. Aug 19, 2016
C. Trimble
C. Trimble  
We climbed this August 2013 but no doubt it was free climbed long before. Yet another “unknown classic” in the Winds. Oct 7, 2018