Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 121 total · 1/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 25, 2007 with improvements by David Miller
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Mentmore Adopt-a-Crag Cleanup, August 18/19, 2018 Details

Description

A neat, recommended trad climb. Start INSIDE the obvious cave at ground level, jam out the crack in the ceiling, pull out onto the varnished face above on bomber handjams, and jam up the crack to easier terrain above. The rock is good, especially at the bottom, and takes great pro. Recommended, and good practice for learning to trust jams!

Location

Look for an obvious cave in the base of the Slab Wall, behind the Inclined Boulder. A steep splitter handcrack comes out of the cave and shoots up the steep face above. Walk off or lower off the bolted anchor just right of the topout.

Protection

Trad gear: bring a few cams up to a #1 C4 for the bottom, and a few big nuts for the top. Two-bolt anchor at top. Rope grooves in the rock limit lateral rope movement.

Photos

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mbakerwh
Gallup, NM
mbakerwh   Gallup, NM
One of my favorite climbs at Mentmore--A great variety of moves, starting with some stemming, then pulling up into a crack for 10 feet of crack climbing, then solidly fun face climbing above. Protects well with .5-#4 camalots, but could easily be done with .5-#2. As mentioned, some good nut placements in the upper sections, though cracks are flaring in places. Mar 3, 2014
alwaystheleo
Gallup
  5.8+ PG13
alwaystheleo   Gallup
  5.8+ PG13
Great beginner trad route. A bit like a nice V1/V2 boulder problem at the start, finishing on a slaby stretch with great juggy holds. Oct 30, 2015