Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Scott Halliday
Page Views: 240 total · 2/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 25, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Mentmore Adopt-a-Crag Cleanup, August 18/19, 2018 Details

Description

A decent route, and the only line on the Original Side bolted by Scott Halliday, who is the chief architect of the New Side. The start is HARD, requiring delicate, powerful moves using pockets on an otherwise smooth face. The arete itself, right of the bolt, is on-route but around the corner is not. You may want to stick-clip the first bolt, or stem across using the boulder to clip it, before launching out on the route. Get established on the lower-angle terrain below the prominent overhang, make a TOUGH clip at the 4th bolt, and then pull the roof. Yes, you'll probably have to trust those delicate-seeming flakes of varnish. Tough route, and maybe slightly sandbagged due to the difficulty of the start.

TRing is tough on this one because of the overhang and the run of the rope, the boulder behind, and the generally cramped quarters.

Location

Look for a boltline tucked between Jabba the Hutt on the left and a large chimney on the right. The start is directly behind a largish boulder.
Lower off, or walk off.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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