Early Access
| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 38.79187, -104.90228 |
| FA: | Ian Spencer-Green 2000? |
| Page Views: | 912 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | abc on Apr 20, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per [[201167197 Cheyenne Canyon Road was closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access was allowed into the canyon.
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
This three bolt route is in your face from the time you clip the first bolt until you get to the anchors. The crux of the route is getting established on the vertical face. While Ian originally graded this 13b, I am not sure that this would clock in at V8.
This is a fun, technical, powerful route in a superb, excluded setting.
I am not sure how Ian and Stew ever found this little crag, but I am glad they did. KUDOS.
Location
This route is easily located once you find the boulder. Look for three bolts perched on the steep to slaby face. The face will look easy and short at first glance, but once you get off the route, you will have a better perspective.
Protection
You will need three draws for the route and two for the bolt-hanger anchor. You can easily set-up a toprope for this route by walking to the top of the rock and reaching down to the anchors. There are hangers on top but not lowering anchors, so you will eventually have to do this little hike regardless to retrieve your gear.



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