Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Original: EFR, John Hayes 1986 Retro-bolt: EFR 2013
Page Views: 1,438 total · 10/month
Shared By: Braxtron on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Climb orange/white face just right of a crack. While now a fully bolted sport route, the crack behind the ledge 10' up supposedly takes gear well.

Location

Just right of It Crack.

Protection

The original route was retro-bolted by the FA. This route is now entirely bolt protected. The anchors are leaver biners.

Photos

Zeb Rafaker
Moab
 
Zeb Rafaker   Moab
 
Fun steep climbing. Heelhook's, slaps, crimps, side pulls, jugs, and long reaches lead to a very cruxy finish. Not so sure about placing pro on this one. Nov 20, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Retro bolted the 5.11R start to this route. Originally I did this climb by traversing in from the left (It Crack). Later I did the unprotected direct start. It is a really nice climb with the protected direct start. Although I think it may only be 11+. Look forward to what others think. Apr 14, 2013
This is a fun little route. Solid three stars. Great technical climbing, and nice flow. It would get another star if it were longer. Clipping the chains wasn't as easy as I had hoped on my nos (near-onsight), whipping off after doing all of the moves.

Thanks EFR for the retrobolt! Bottom is fun. Oct 25, 2013
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11d
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.11d
Updated the route description to reflect the retro-bolted status.

A very nice line reminiscent in both rock quality and style of Jailhouse Rock at Prison Camp. Ample rests break the fun sequences. I found it better and easier than The Other One. Feb 21, 2014
jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
3 stars..... all night long. Mar 23, 2014