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5.12a, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 64 votes
FA: Original: EFR, John Hayes 1986 Retro-bolt: EFR 2013
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 1 - Lower Highway > It Cliff

Description

Climb the steep features on the orange/white face just right of 'It Crack'. While now a fully bolted sport route, it was originally done via a 5.11R start w/ the first protection being some gear behind the ledge 15' up. Use all tricks to lieback, crimp, side pull, undercling, and heel hook your way up the face (even some cheeky fingerlocks). Milk the rests when you find them and fire the redpoint crux just before the chains.

Location

Just right of It Crack.

Protection

The original route was retro-bolted by the FA in 2013, it is now entirely bolt protected (6 bolts) to a 2 chain anchor with leaver biners just below the lip. 2x access bolts above the lip make setting a top rope/hanging draws safe and easy. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Clay Mansfield on the redpoint.
[Hide Photo] Clay Mansfield on the redpoint.
The rig on the right. TRmageddon on It Cliff to get properly pumped with no partner. if you combine a lap on it crack with a lap on something else, it's like a full pitch of 5.12. highly recommend for the TR tough guys.
[Hide Photo] The rig on the right. TRmageddon on It Cliff to get properly pumped with no partner. if you combine a lap on it crack with a lap on something else, it's like a full pitch of 5.12. highly recommend…
another shot of joe on his oh-so-close onsight attempt.
[Hide Photo] another shot of joe on his oh-so-close onsight attempt.
joe silver on his onsight attempt. the toprope is on It Crack.
[Hide Photo] joe silver on his onsight attempt. the toprope is on It Crack.
Clay Mansfield in the business.
[Hide Photo] Clay Mansfield in the business.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Reese
Moab, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Fun steep climbing. Heelhook's, slaps, crimps, side pulls, jugs, and long reaches lead to a very cruxy finish. Not so sure about placing pro on this one. Nov 20, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Originally the route finished by climbing over the top and belayed the second from above. There was no such thing as lower offs at that time. When both climbers got to the top you walked down the gully to the left. Retro bolted the 5.11R start to this route. Originally I did this climb by traversing in from the left (It Crack). Later I did the unprotected direct start. It is a really nice climb with the protected direct start. Although I think it may only be 11+. Look forward to what others think. Apr 14, 2013
Canadian Badger (Eric Ruljancich)
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This is a fun little route. Solid three stars. Great technical climbing, and nice flow. It would get another star if it were longer. Clipping the chains wasn't as easy as I had hoped on my nos (near-onsight), whipping off after doing all of the moves.

Thanks EFR for the retrobolt! Bottom is fun. Oct 25, 2013
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Updated the route description to reflect the retro-bolted status.

A very nice line reminiscent in both rock quality and style of Jailhouse Rock at Prison Camp. Ample rests break the fun sequences. I found it better and easier than The Other One. Feb 21, 2014
jbak x
tucson, az
 
[Hide Comment] 3 stars..... all night long. Mar 23, 2014