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Routes in It Cliff

All of the Above S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Another Thing S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cousin It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Other One, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Reiterate S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Something Else S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Teeny Weeny S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vince's Girlfriend S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
We Aren't Going to Take It S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Your Boyfriend S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Your Momma S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,583 total · 16/month
Shared By: bw1 on Mar 21, 2005
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

Attention all crack climbers...this one is a Lemmon gem. A high quality crack that eats up gear and has got to be one of the few cracks of its kind on the mountain.

Protection

1 set of stoppers, camalots to #2.

Photos

bw1
 
bw1  
 
forgot to mention that as of march 05 there were 2 sets of 2 bolts atop the route. Apr 5, 2005
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11a/b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11a/b
Even if you're TRing it, you probably want to take a #2 Camalot to keep yourself on the route and rest a bit if you fall..

It's overhanging enough that it could be a serious pain in the ass trying to get back on... Apr 23, 2007
Chris Prewitt
  5.10d
Chris Prewitt  
  5.10d
While it is true that this is "one of the few cracks of it's kind" on ML, I would not go as far as to call it a "gem" or "high quality". Nice things about it are that it's five minutes from the car and takes gear well, so you can use it as a stepping stone to longer, harder lines. Oh, and compared to other cracks of this kind 11- is strecthing it. Jan 28, 2008
eMurdock
Tucson, Arizona
eMurdock   Tucson, Arizona
I climbed this last week after not doing it for almost a decade. The 'new' anchors are equipped with rap links but are way too far back to be of any use for rapping (they are fine for setting up an anchor and walking off). I am going to move them closer to the edge on the upper block so that the route can be set up after a lead or TR with a couple draws. I will make sure it does not preclude the topout moves. It will just save rope wear and a little bit of time. This is a good place to run into for a quick 1.5 hour, 4 pitch, lunch breack, session. It is also a good place to self belay. Any objections??

Also, this route is really, really good if you want to get some jamming in. Don't care much about the grade these days, but it is a gem; high quality, solid rock, good jamming, steep, and shady. It is a bit easier than some of the other 11 cracks on the mountain. Oct 6, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11a/b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11a/b
You can practice everything from tips to handstacks in like 35 feet of climbing. Also foot jamming, getting past wide sections to the next good jam, not placing gear where your next good jam is gonna be, not stopping to place gear when it's better to run it to the next good jam, etc, etc, etc..Would give it 4 stars (ie for Tucson) were it not for a couple of sections where it's too easy to shy away from the crack climbing.

Tape could help but not really necessary, nothing too sharp.

Not a bad place to go to refresh your skills before a Forks trip.

PS I don't think the moving of anchors mentioned above ever happened.

PSS Some hissing noises coming from underneath the summit block, I think the little critter has enough space to crawl towards the back but I wouldn't stick my whole arm in there :-) Jan 19, 2012
Jackson.
Flagstaff AZ
Jackson.   Flagstaff AZ
This climb certainly feels like solid 5.11 when its 100 degrees in Tucson!
There is a new set of anchors midway way where I believe there used to be a single bolt. Maybe these anchors make top-roping the route easier but they precede the fun top out moves. I recommend plugging a bomber cam one foot below the new anchors and gunning it to the shuts atop the cliff. May 21, 2014
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
Does anyone know who added these anchors and why? I am sure the person had good intentions, but to me they mar a very good climb. There is excellent gear where the bolts are but you have to be able to hang on and place it (maybe plugging a good jam), and that may even be the climb's crux (unless you've got it all wired). The bolts are a distracting temptation, and I can't see what the benefit is, as they are well below the top of the climb. They do not make it easier to set up a toprope, or to lead the route clean and conveniently lower, since you wouldn't be close to completing the whole climb.

I'm not looking for a witch-hunt; if the person who placed these would like to address why, it would be great to hear from him/her, and have a civil discussion about it. May 22, 2014
JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
Just wondering if the reason for these allegedly odd anchors might be these bolts are in good rock at the obvious top of the crack climb. While the original anchors are set 4 feet back on top of the cap rock above the crack. I'm no expert but it seems to me these anchors are exactly where they should be to facilitate a fun crack climb as opposed to beating the crap out of your rope to awkwardly top out on a non-summit?. I admit they avoid some weird moves above the crack and further that, by saying this, I reveal myself to be a pansy, weak sauce, and extra light duty. I suppose someday I'll understand the original anchors and on that day, the heavens shall part and I will be a real Tucson climber. Feb 27, 2016

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