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Routes in Lieback Rock

Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0 4
Flake V0 4
Funky Like a Monkey (aka Lieback Rock Traverse) V3 6A
Lieback Rock Dyno T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Lieback Rock Lieback T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantle V0- 4-
Sloping Disappointment V2 5+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,092 total, 24/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Mar 12, 2007 with updates
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

The namesake of Lieback Rock.

Lieback up a right facing rail where the rock splits from pink to grey. Get up to a finger pocket undercling. Follow undercling flake around right and then finish up the seam to the top.

Classic. Feels more like an actual trad route than a boulder since it is so long and varied. Some start on the right side of the rail for added difficulty.

Location

Center to rigt side of Lieback Rock.

Protection

Pad and somebody to move it. Crux is start up to undercling so a pad at the start only is helpful.

Photos

Elush
CA
5.10
Elush   CA
5.10
I'm just curious where you people are bouldering that you think this is anywhere near the ratings you suggest? I've bouldered all over the west and find Santee grades to be very comparable. 10c all the way Mar 14, 2017
nds
Oceanside, Ca
  5.11b/c
nds   Oceanside, Ca
  5.11b/c
Funny the conversation and varied opinions on the grade of this climb. One of the more enjoyable lines at Santee in my opinion and placed in any other bouldering area would be in the solid v2 to v3 range. Yet it's in polished old school Santee so it gets 11a which is equivalent to v1. Take it for what it is, a decent boulder problem that requires a little technique and a little power. Climb it and move on to better stuff. Apr 10, 2013
From 10c all the way to V3. Apr 10, 2013
A Terray
San Diego, CA
 
A Terray   San Diego, CA
 
V2...need to convert these to V-grades Mar 19, 2013
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
  5.10c
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
  5.10c
Super classic santee climb!~!! Great fun and tough till u get the beta. Finish out above the undercling for ultimate reward! Super polished nowdays... Actually all of " mudball" is pretty classic and polished. Sep 13, 2012
This thing is pretty polished nowadays. Tough to feel solid. Jul 12, 2012
I was messing around on the traverse yesterday at sunset and right after the sun had set about 100 bats flew out of that crack. It scared the shit out of me because I just had my hands in the crack for the start of the traverse. Jan 10, 2012
TBONE
Chattanooga, Tennessee
 
TBONE   Chattanooga, Tennessee
 
more ridiculous examples of 5th class ratings for boulder problems. just because someone did this crap in the past does not mean it's a good idea to keep doing it. fun problem. V3 Jan 1, 2012
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
"May 23, 2009 Why is this marked a 'trad' route?"

I wanted to give it a YDS rating as all the Santee guides to date have. That was the only way. Dec 28, 2009
James Geddes
Esco, CA
James Geddes   Esco, CA
Why is this marked a 'trad' route? May 23, 2009
Tavis Ricksecker  
5.11-
I heard long ago that the undercling/pocket thing is actually a manufactured hold: someone in the 70's smashed it out of the flake with a hammer. Its possible to complete the problem without using it. For maximum style points, step back left above the lip of the overhang and top out on slab. Jul 9, 2007