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Routes in Lieback Rock

Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0- 4-
Flake V0 4
Funky Like a Monkey (aka Lieback Rock Traverse) V3 6A
Lieback Rock Dyno T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0 4
Lieback Rock Lieback T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V1 5
Mantle V0- 4-
Sloping Disappointment V2 5+
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,423 total · 17/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Mar 12, 2007 with updates from Logan Swartz
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Work your way up and then dyno to a large jug. Then up to the top. Can be done static as well but it takes more skill.

Location

Just left of the lieback rail at the start of the lieback.

Protection

Skill.

Photos

This one got harder when the launching hold broke.. used to be a flat horizontal incut for both hands. For bonus points go both hands! Jul 9, 2007
Tradiban  
 
More dead point than dyno. V0+ Jul 12, 2012
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
  5.9
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
  5.9
Why is everyone rating this in 5.10?? Not a hard climb unless you count for the polished foot hold, but still. Sep 13, 2012
Sdm1568
Ca
 
Sdm1568   Ca
 
I agree hands are good, I don't usually dyno this, more fun to work feet up and stretch for the ledge. Sep 27, 2012
Industrialwrench
El Cajon, Ca
  5.9-
Industrialwrench   El Cajon, Ca
  5.9-
It's fun. Love this boulder in general. Did this problem for the first time barefoot. It's not as slick as it seems...I lost a good size piece of my toe pad, bleeding, on that smear. Oct 26, 2012
A Terray
San Diego, CA
 
A Terray   San Diego, CA
 
V0- at best Mar 19, 2013
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.10a
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.10a
Crux I think is getting to holds to dyno from. slippery feet Apr 9, 2013
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Logan, I tried adding V0 as an alternate grade, not sure the practical effect it will have on consensus grading here though. Can you go back and let me know if that unlocked your ability to vote in the "Hueco" scale?

This area is, IMHO, a fine example of the shortcomings of the V- scale. YDS gives fine accuracy in the single digit 5.s, whereas V- dismisses all of the gradation as "too easy to bother with." V0s and V-easy or V-basic grades get misapplied to many routes that aren't that hard, making the art of climbing needlessly obscure to beginners. I dream of a world that uses a sensible full range, egalitarian pure decimal scale like the Ewbank! ... har har.... Sep 18, 2014
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.10a
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.10a
Justin it did unlock the ability to vote in the "Hueco" scale. I just did it. Having both I think is the best of both worlds! Thanks! Sep 18, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Logan, totally agree, and thanks for confirming MP grades are working like I thought they would! I'll add the V scales to the other routes you mentioned, too. Sep 19, 2014
James Roe
  5.10c V1
James Roe  
  5.10c V1
Looks like quite a lot of chipping has happened here and the footholds are incredibly polished. Jan 19, 2015
Will H.
  5.10a V0
Will H.  
  5.10a V0
Short, but super fun. I found being tall a big advantage in reaching the so-called launch hold. Very satisfying latching onto the ledge. Feb 6, 2016

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