Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 315 total · 2/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 3, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This sub-par line might be pretty good if it were properly cleaned. Unfortunately in its current state you will likely be more focused on avoiding the plentiful choss than enjoying the challenging moves.

Rope up at the left end of the Sunny Side (Right End) below a 6 foot roof that is 20 feet up the cliff. The Route begins just left of and below a shimmering patch of black bat guano. Head up and right along a flake feature, past the guano, to the 2nd bolt, just below the roof. At this point "Left Dihedral" 12a, goes straight up. For "Right Dihedral", traverse (fairly easily) right on huge slopers, trying your best to avoid feces and loose rock. Once on the far right end of the roof, mantle onto the large ledge, where a no-hands rest is possible. Charge up and slightly left on large holds, that begin to disappear as you approach the dihedral. Enter the corner with extreme difficulty on large, rounded holds. Eight feet of pumpy, Moab-like thrashing (liebacking) will deliver you to a good rest, and 20 feet of easy slabbin' on surprisingly excellent stone.

Location

50 feet left of Heat Stroke

Protection

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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