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Routes in Joe Brown

Direct Tissima TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edge, The TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eye, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Power Pack TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sack Relig TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scoop Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unisloper TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waterchute TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zig Zag 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c V-easy 3
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,729 total, 21/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Feb 28, 2007 with updates
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A good climb. Start below and to the left of the obvious 'eye' in the rock. Make some hard moves up and along a rail until you have the eye by the socket.

Don't hang around too long before heading up onto easier ground.

Location

Located just left of center on the steep West face.

Protection

Slings and bolts provide good anchors.

Two top-roping bolts on top of Joe Brown boulder are loose and rusted. I would not trust them. Need replacement.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10d
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10d
I agree with Justin that the rating on "The Eye" is more realistically 5.10+ (ie 5.10d). Great moves on steep, positive orange and red features. Deciphering the sequence on the red rail before The Eye seems to be the ticket to success. Jan 29, 2012
Drew Hecht
  5.11b
Drew Hecht  
  5.11b
An area classic. It's a great, albeit short, climb that is pretty sustained up to the "eye". I'm 5'6" and I think it's a bit of a bouldery problem for shorter people. Jul 2, 2011
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
I've never climbed 11b/c but I would venture to guess this climb is easier than that. Maybe mid to high tens? I'm six three, maybe that makes things easier on this climb. All that said, this is a great climb. Figuring out how to work the rail up to the eye was the crux. I reclimbed it twice cause it's that fun. Dec 31, 2010
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Bolts exist on top, but no slings. These bolts are quite hammered--literally. They've been hammered flat and then pried up again. It is possible to back up the bolts using the remains of the iron guardrail. Mar 13, 2008