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Routes in Joe Brown

Direct Tissima TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edge, The TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eye, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Power Pack TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sack Relig TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scoop Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unisloper TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waterchute TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zig Zag 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c V-easy 3
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 586 total, 4/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climbs directly up the steep face then easy angled slab right of Waterchute.

The only interesting part of the climb is at the very start and that is over all too quick.

Location

Climbs the fairly steep slab right of the Waterchute corner.

Protection

Bolts and slings on top provide good anchors.

Photos

Drew Hecht
  5.11c
Drew Hecht  
  5.11c
This is a fun route that marked my beginnings as a climber back in 94 with my brother. It's super fun. Edited 10/17/16: Actually, this is easily 11bc. I've been climbing this again lately and this is a full value climb (I live at the base of Mt. Rubidoux). I think most of the descriptions about this climb are wrong and have it too far to the left. This climb starts through a gymnastic bulge at the bottom and proceeds straight up. The "Unisloper" is a right-hand up high to pull your hips over the bulge. After this, the climb is still interesting 5.9 climbing and requires you to pull over the edge 10ish on to a slab where you finish on a no-hands step-up portion of the slab. This is a great short climb and every bit the level of "The Eye" Most the people I see attempt it can't get through the power to balance sequence of the bulge. See my uploaded beta image. Jul 2, 2011