Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,632 total · 18/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 24, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Varied climbing, with somewhat tricky gear placements, up the corner to a distinct crux at a small roof just below the anchors. You'll need to employ all of your climbing skills on this one to succeed.

Location

The obvious left-facing corner on the left end of the east face between Grinder on the right and John Hartman's Proud Rock Climb on the left.

Protection

Gear to 3", bolted anchor/rap

Photos

rex parker
las vegas n.v
rex parker   las vegas n.v
at least 3, .3 cams help out. Jul 24, 2013
John Pan
Los Angeles, California
John Pan   Los Angeles, California
BETA below. Don't read if you don't want Beta.

1) Bring a lot of smaller cams. I used all my X4's .1-.4.

2) a .5 fits well just under the roof crux. Jul 9, 2014
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
As others have said, emphasis on small gear for this one. This climb eats up nuts, especially offsets. I placed 1 blue camalot and 1 green camalot, and everything else was smaller. Tiny cams are useful. Of course, YMMV.

Really cool climb requiring a variety of techniques. I found it to be very well protected. Aug 4, 2014
Professor Snax
Atlanta
 
Professor Snax   Atlanta
 
Super fun lead! The movement is so much better than I anticipated from below. It's worth bringing a small rack for this gem amongst bolted lines. Good gear beta per the other commenters, though the placements are indeed thought provoking.

  • gear beta*
.5 or grey alien goes perfectly in the upper crack. Jul 23, 2018
BAd
  5.10b
BAd  
  5.10b
Yes! SO good. Lots of small cams. A #3 Camelot is nice for the last piece in the overhang up top. Great pro throughout. Great rests, and pretty easy to protect well--i.e. good stances. Get on it! Jul 28, 2018