Type: Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), 14 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 48,031 total · 287/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 23, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and 2020 visits. Details

Description

This route features very easy climbing, but great exposure and views. Most of it can be simulclimbed. There are only two or three somewhat technical pitches near the summit.

Low down there really is not one best way to go. Just up. From a large ledge halfway up the face, the ridge starts to lead the the west side. Most will simul-climb or solo the bottom 3/4. Up high you can make it easy or hard. We stayed on the right side of the ridge and belayed on great ledges (kept some pitches short because this route has some loose rock). I think that you can find a 5.8 pitch out left just before the summit, but this looked loose.

Location

Don't even think about getting on this thing until the snow is off the ledge that's halfway up the climb! If you are lucky enough to watch this slide off, you'll understand.

Approach

Leave the parking area and try your best to find the game/climbers trail up the drainage on the left of the face. Once up on the slabs, just head up and right until you feel like you want a rope.

It's a bit easier walking near the lake to the trail. Follow the trail left until you see a large clear (relatively brush-free) area directly below the lowest cliff. Head straight up aiming for the left edge of this cliff band. You will find a trail leading up and left along the base of the cliff (at first). The only hard parts to follow are a bit of dirty slab and when the trail leads into the bushes (past a huge fallen tree) and you seem to be going further left than you want. Don't worry, it comes back right. Also, the 4th class (either up or just left of the little waterfall) is WAY easier than trying to bushwhack left to get to the starting ledge.

Descent

Once on top, you can go the long way or the long way. We went down the west ridge to a grove, then north (towards Tenaya Lake) and back east across the large grass bench and back to the parking lot. I don't think this is the best way. Steep, slow, cross-country hiking.

The other way is to head southeast and hit the Clouds Rest Trail back to the road at the west end of Tenaya Lake and hitchhike back to your car.

Protection

Small rack. No fixed gear on the route that we saw.

Photos