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Routes in White Face

Snow White S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stemroids S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Flight S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Head S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Out S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whiter Shade Of Pale S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 618 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

A series of balancy liebacks lead up to and past the first bolt, after which easier moves in the middle of the route lead to yet more liebacking past the third bolt, all of which should get you loosened up for the funky crux. Clip the last bolt, take a deep breath, and then commit to a series of awkward moves above the bolt with some good air potential if you pitch.

Technical and off-balance moves make this climb seem harder than it is, which is perhaps why it's not as popular as the neighboring routes.

Location

This is the second route from the left and is located between White Head and White Out.

Protection

5 bolts, shuts

Photos

An easier, more natural finish leads up and slightly right of the last bolt. The route is probably 10b that way. Climbing straight up past the bolt puts you in holdless no-man's-land with obviously easier lines to the left and right. It's almost like they put that last bolt there to sucker you in. Apr 19, 2010
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
 
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
 
Wasn't my cup of tea. If you like doing lie backs on cracks and doing forceful moves, go ahead and go for it. It just didn't flow for me Mar 23, 2010
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.11a
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.11a
Kinda fun... kinda awkward... kinda forced. The clip and move right at the top is bush league. For having a contrived finish, the route ain't bad, but don't pop doing those last moves... you just might clang pretty good down below the overhang. Mar 4, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11a
Starting moves are technical and committing as you liback a finger crack. After clipping the 3rd bolt you naturally move left using another liback section. Moving beyond the 4th bolt is a bit strange as you are forced through awkward and less than positive side pulls to get to the anchor. This section provides much better feet than hands and stop shopping for better hands as they don't exist.

This route could have easily exited from the left after the liback crack. This would have been the natural line. As it is, the last few feet seem forced but is probably the 11a section of the route. Had it taken the natural line the route most likely wouldn't be harder than .10?

Fun and definitely worth doing while at the wall!!

~Susan Mar 3, 2007