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Routes in Holy Wars Cliff

Dirty Dancing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jihad S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket in My Pocket S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Bohemia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Grant Hiskes, Ken Yager, 1989
Page Views: 1,115 total, 8/month
Shared By: Kellen Holt on Oct 22, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Somewhat of a 5.11 testpiece for the Mammoth Area. Crux is right above the first bolt, and through the second bolt. Climb a steep, technical bulge, that might require a somewhat dynamic move (it did for me being 5'7) for two bolts. The route then eases over to a slab above this, which serves as a rest after the crux. From there, the route continues up for 8 more bolts with a few tricky 5.10 sections. Lower off.

Protection

10 bolts to cold shuts

Photos

Did this route the other day. Really nice climbing. Definitely a candidate for some bolt replacement down low. Rusty, loose bolts on pretty severe moves...they are probably the original bolts and have obviously seen a lot of action.

Excellent route. Aug 7, 2013
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11c
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11c
yeah, tricky clip and a loose bolt. Go for the 3rd! May 15, 2009
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.11c
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.11c
I did this route a few years ago and remember the second bolt being a little manky. Really fun route though. May 14, 2009
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11c
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11c
I found clipping the second bolt from below fairly hard. Much easier to go for the jug and clip the bolt once you have the jug. Jan 16, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.11c
C Miller   CA  
  5.11c
Another great route of the area. Once past the bouldery start it's pretty much a cruise to the top, which makes this a good candidate for those breaking into the grade. Oct 25, 2006