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Routes in Elephant Knob

Elephantiasis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tusk, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Newman, E.C. Joe (1976)
Page Views: 126 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 26, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

As of 2004, this was among the only climbs free of loose rock. It is also perhaps the best crack climb on the formation.

Start in a large recess below a gully on the south side of the dome. Traverses up and right and turn the corner of a blunt arete (5.6). Climb a finger & hand crack left of a pine tree (5.7). At a horizontal break, move left and climb a steep fist crack to a sloping ledge (5.7/5.8 and FUN). Belay takes small stoppers & TCUs. Rappel the gully to your starting point from slings around a chockstone. The gully itself can be downclimbed at awkward but easy class 5.

Adventurous climbers may wish to continue up one of three short but sweet fingertips cracks (5.10+). Rappel from slings.

Location

Start in a large recess below a gully on the south/southwest side of the dome (immediately around the corner to the right of Elephantiasis). On the left hand side is a dihedral/chimney that is a fun alternate start to Elephantiasis (5.8). On the right-hand wall is the start of the Tusk.

Protection

1/2" to 3.5"
Small nuts & TCUs for belay

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