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Routes in The Flytrap

A Fly in the Ointment S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ape Variation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Barking Crawdad S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Body Language S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chef Sheri S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chenglish Master S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deck Attraction, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly Boys S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fly By Night S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Soup S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fly, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hopscotch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lagoon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lord of the Flies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Metamorphosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moucha S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Fly S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown FlyTrap Route S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: M. Nad, J. Nad
Page Views: 3,590 total · 24/month
Shared By: EricD on Jul 25, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Crawdad Canyon is private property. Details

Description

Great fun route with a small roof that is the crux. There's a finger pocket that's a savior if found. A long reach is helpful to get through this (or faith in your feet).

Location

Off the pool deck just at the bottom of the ladder. A plaque marks the beginning of the route.

Protection

8 bolts to sport anchors

Photos

46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
As good as any route at the Fly Trap if not all of Crawdad. Everything you want from stem, slab, crimp, steep, etc!! Unlike other routes here, this one probably does earn it's grade at the balancy middle section of the route where a fall would be somewhat nasty. Have faith in those feet and toes at the crux!! Aug 15, 2006
Josh Audrey
LAS VEGAS
 
Josh Audrey   LAS VEGAS
 
fun route the holds just keep on coming. Mar 7, 2007
EAS Fett
Park City, UT
 
EAS Fett   Park City, UT
 
There are 2 routes that start at the same place here. The bolted line that splits to the left (the pictures you see people climbing) is not moucha. The name of this route is called A Fly in the Ointment 5.10c/d and has pretty thin moves on a slabby to vertical wall. The bolt line that splits to the right is moucha 5.10b. Moucha starts on the slab then head right to a roof with nice pockets to a lieback section. I had a friend climb Ointment thinking it was moucha because of the pictures online. He did good until he got pumped at the anchors. He missed the clip and took a 20 foot whipper, the fall was clean! Apr 4, 2009
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.10b
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.10b
It is easy to get confused and bear left following the bolts to fly in the ointment. I could not get through the thin crux section and couldn't figure out why I was having so much trouble with a 10b. Then I went back and tried the right side. It is a beautiful climb and in my opinion, one of the best at the canyon. May 2, 2010
Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
 
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
 
One of the best routes for its grade in the canyon. Don't miss this one. And yes, it veers to the right after the 1st bolt. Mar 2, 2013
Nathan D Johnson
  5.10+
Nathan D Johnson  
  5.10+
Shares the first bolt with A Fly in the Ointment (5.10+) and then moves right. May 5, 2015
David Reuille
Denver, CO
  5.10b
David Reuille   Denver, CO
  5.10b
Super excellent route. Was really a one move wonder for a 10b Jul 4, 2017

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