Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,627 total · 11/month
Shared By: Granger on Jun 24, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Perhaps "Two-fingered, Pointy-toes" would be a better name; that's what you need to climb it. The crux is when you're level with the second bolt; you've got to have sticky feet if you're going to reach past the bulge.

Once you get on the route, it's fairly consistent. Most of your holds (on the right side) are 2 to 3 finger-sized, and your feet usually have to use the same hold later, so trim your toenails. =)

Location

Climb up the very left (north) edge of the Tinker Toys wall. The arete is on; you'll use it the whole way up. The vertical crack on your right is off because that's Lincoln Logs. You'll be very tempted to use the crack when you're at the first bolt, but you can get by without it; the other temptation is to swing around to Battleship, but don't do that either.

Protection

Use the chains for Lincoln Logs. The 2 bolts could be used to keep you from swinging over Lincoln Logs if you pop off, but the angle to the chains isn't real significant until you're at the second bolt (unless you like the rope tight).

Photos

I heard this was a Jeff Pedersen route... Mar 15, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
"The arete is on; you'll use it the whole way up."

I did that today but it was definitely not 5.11c. More like 5.10b. It's still fun that way, but not even close to 5.11. To make it 5.11c, you'd need to avoid the crack on the right AND the arete on the left. Jun 20, 2009
Thomas Holmes   Utah
UPDATE- Anchor was fixed.

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FYI as of 9/8/17

The right bolt at the chain anchor (climbers perspective) is wiggling, not just the hanger but the bolt. It needs to be replaced. Left bolt still appears anchored properly. Sep 8, 2017