Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 875 total · 5/month
Shared By: JNE on Apr 11, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a sandbag and is a beautiful route. It goes up a thin crack for about twenty feet, traverses right ten feet, then fires out a five foot roof, ending shortly thereafter.

I was once asking Bob for thin crack recommendations, and he told me about this thing. "5.11+ bwa, ha, ha! That's a good, thin crack! Bwa ha, ha! Only me, Suzuki, and Petro have ever done it, bwa, ha, ha! Go do that one, bwa, ha, ha!" Bob only ever sandbags you to get you to go do something, he never really means any harm. He just wants people to be humble and respectful.

Location

Follow the approach for Gorilla Rock, and upon reaching the alcoves, head around to the right to get to the opposite side of Gorilla Rock. It should stand out based on its description. As Goodman said of his ascent "as hard as any of the other hard cracks I've done at Vedauwoo."

Protection

Yellow to orange Aliens. Gear anchor, walk off.

Photos