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Routes in Gorilla Rock

Bad Girl's Dream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bad Girls Do T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gash T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gloria T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Monkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mexican Miracle Water T V4 6B
Paths to Gloria V2-3 5+
Raspberry Crack V1-2 5
Slash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Still a Gorilla T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 442 total, 3/month
Shared By: JNE on Apr 11, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a sandbag and is a beautiful route. It goes up a thin crack for about twenty feet, traverses right ten feet, then fires out a five foot roof, ending shortly thereafter.

I was once asking Bob for thin crack recommendations, and he told me about this thing. "5.11+ bwa, ha, ha! That's a good, thin crack! Bwa ha, ha! Only me, Suzuki, and Petro have ever done it, bwa, ha, ha! Go do that one, bwa, ha, ha!" Bob only ever sandbags you to get you to go do something, he never really means any harm. He just wants people to be humble and respectful.

Location

Follow the approach for Gorilla Rock, and upon reaching the alcoves, head around to the right to get to the opposite side of Gorilla Rock. It should stand out based on its description. As Goodman said of his ascent "as hard as any of the other hard cracks I've done at Vedauwoo."

Protection

Yellow to orange Aliens. Gear anchor, walk off.

Photos

John L
Fort Collins, CO
 
John L   Fort Collins, CO
 
It's easy to scramble up around the back and set up a gear anchor. If anyone has some beta for this, that would be awesome (shoot me a PM). It's hard, really hard.

I'd also like to know if anyone who has climbed the third pitch of Friday the 13th thinks it is "soft" - at least it's soft compared to this! Great route. Jun 5, 2017
bart cubrich 1
  5.11+
bart cubrich 1  
  5.11+
Lol, 11+! Sep 19, 2014
EldoFiend
WY
 
EldoFiend   WY
 
I brought a green Alien for the top of the route and was real happy to have it. You are a good couple feet above your last piece after you pull the crux, and the top isn't easy - insecure tips, for me at least. An awesome route. Sep 5, 2009
Bart Paull
Boulder, CO
Bart Paull   Boulder, CO
Stellar line. More like "Still an unbelievable sandbag.... " Apr 6, 2008