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Routes in Gorilla Rock

Bad Girl's Dream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bad Girls Do T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gash T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gloria T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Monkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mexican Miracle Water T V4 6B
Paths to Gloria V2-3 5+
Raspberry Crack V1-2 5
Slash T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Still a Gorilla T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 469 total, 3/month
Shared By: JNE on Apr 15, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is stiff. It starts out as overhanging hands and fists and slowly widens to an offwidth crux where the crack goes from overhanging to less than vertical. It is fairly easy climbing to the top. This is a beautiful route. Do it!

Hey Bob, why'd you call it Bad Girl's Dream?

BECAUSE IT'S BIG AND HARD, BWA, HA, HA!

Location

This is the right most crack in the left hand alcove.

Protection

#3.5 to #6 Friends. Doubles up to #5 are useful. There is an anchor up top. Save some hand and fist stuff for the top, there is a crack to stuff it in. Be careful at the crux, more than one climber has either kicked/dragged their gear completely out, or come close to it, leaving them with groundfall potential.

Photos

honeyjacket  
 
Two fives are definitely useful. Although it's possible to bump one through the crux, it would be gnarly to fall and not have the 5 catch. I bumped a 6 and then took it out and used it for the top section making it feel pretty casual. One of the best OWs out there! Sep 21, 2015
Kirk L
Fort Collins, CO
Kirk L   Fort Collins, CO
This thing felt way harder than Big Pink, IMO. I think Bart's comment is spot on unless you have fists the size of boxing gloves. Jun 1, 2015
Bart Paull
Boulder, CO
Bart Paull   Boulder, CO
One of the Vedauwoo's best. Either a highly acrobatic endeavour or a true test of core/calf strength. Watch the rock below, it is positioned to break your skull and neck if you fall the wrong way. I recommend ace bandages on the right calf for this one. Apr 6, 2008