Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Onyx Summit Crag

Big BM T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clip Art S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cliptomania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freak on a Leash S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lost on the Horizon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nothing Could be Finer than to be in a Vagina in the Morning S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opiate S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Palm Pilot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Miller, August 1999
Page Views: 742 total, 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route starts just right of Opiate and climbs the right arete of the main pillar directly from the bottom, joining with Clip Art at the fourth bolt.

Climb an overhanging right-facing flake to it's end and then bust out left (crux) to a distant edge. Note: this section is somewhat reachy and those without the necessary wingspan will likely find this section to be more difficult than stated. Once past the crux and established on the arete proper, climb engaging moves past three bolts on impeccable stone to a stance below the final two bolts, and then head up and left along the slightly overhung arete (5.10) to shared anchors with Clip Art.

Location

Found between Opiate and Clip Art on the main pillar.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 bolt lower-off

Photos

- No Photos -
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.12a
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.12a
Without route beta, this would be a very difficult onsight. Took a while to figure out the big move left (the crux move). The arete above is simply excellent rock and great movement. Definitely recommend. Aug 12, 2013
clustiere  
 
A fun route, the crux was more like .11b/c. Enjoy!! Aug 5, 2012
Colin Schour
Big Bear Lake, CA
  5.11d
Colin Schour   Big Bear Lake, CA
  5.11d
Did not feel like 5.12 to me, (maybe because I'm short and was able to get a high right foot), but definitely a great crux with a fun (10-) arete finish. Apr 1, 2011
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.12a
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.12a
A good route with a distinct crux. The finishing arete is excellent - if you don't want to do the hard start move right to Clip Art, and enjoy the finish. Apr 13, 2008