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Routes in Onyx Summit Crag

Big BM T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Clip Art S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cliptomania S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freak on a Leash S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lost on the Horizon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nothing Could be Finer than to be in a Vagina in the Morning S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opiate S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Palm Pilot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Miller, May 2001
Page Views: 85 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starting from the left side of a small ledge 10' off the ground and just left of the start of Cliptomania climb straight up the center of the main pillar.

Thin, crimpy and somewhat painful moves over a bulge provide the first crux, which once past lead to easy ground in the middle of the face and a rest before the second and final crux. Clip a directional bolt and then launch up the amazing white headwall (5.11a) using the plentiful edges to decipher a somewhat tricky sequence enroute to the sport anchors atop the route.

The lower moves on this are more difficult than enjoyable and the lack of continuous climbing detracts from the overall experience, but the upper moves are superb and well worth enduring the lower portion of the route.

Location

Located up the middle of the main pillar and between Palm Pilot and Cliptomania

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt lower-off

Photos

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Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11c
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11c
I liked the sharp crimps at the start, and I loved the finishing moves up the wall of the pyramid. The moves up to the 3rd bolt on the headwall felt hard for 11a, more like 11b. Apr 13, 2008