Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Miller, May 2001
Page Views: 134 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Starting from the left side of a small ledge 10' off the ground and just left of the start of Cliptomania climb straight up the center of the main pillar.

Thin, crimpy and somewhat painful moves over a bulge provide the first crux, which once past lead to easy ground in the middle of the face and a rest before the second and final crux. Clip a directional bolt and then launch up the amazing white headwall (5.11a) using the plentiful edges to decipher a somewhat tricky sequence enroute to the sport anchors atop the route.

The lower moves on this are more difficult than enjoyable and the lack of continuous climbing detracts from the overall experience, but the upper moves are superb and well worth enduring the lower portion of the route.

Location

Located up the middle of the main pillar and between Palm Pilot and Cliptomania

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt lower-off

Photos

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Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11c
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11c
I liked the sharp crimps at the start, and I loved the finishing moves up the wall of the pyramid. The moves up to the 3rd bolt on the headwall felt hard for 11a, more like 11b. Apr 13, 2008