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Routes in Sabino Canyon

Colorado Crush T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Echo Dancer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hard to Swallow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heart of a Rhombohedron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kor Wall T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Control T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Naked Prey, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tongue of Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yabbadabbadoo! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Layton Kor, George Hurley 1969
Page Views: 4,451 total, 31/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Getting to the base of the route is an uphill march: from shuttle stop 7 walk back down canyon 100yds to a gully heading uphill for 200yds til it connects with the sabino trail. Travel uphill @ 1/2 mile to the Phoneline trail, turn right til you get to the Hiker's Gully @ 100yds and walk up it til you get level with the Kor Wall's base. Walk left to the rocky base and drop your packs. Climb 3rd/4th class up to the left side of the pillar @ 300' and set your belay inside the chimney. Climb chimney, work your way to the edge of it up high and then work back inside to top of pillar. Belay on slung block. Pitch 2 goes up @ 10-15' then traverses left on incipient cracks for 40-50', trending down on easier ground to the main crack. Climb a bit higher to set belay. Pitch 3 goes up small cracks on great rock, stay right of dihedral visible above. Stay right on good crack with piton to pass crux bulge then traverse left when level with start of dihedral to set a belay. Pitch 4 goes up remaining dihedral and wanders right to ledge going directly right under a roof. Go around corner to set belay on ledge where it ends. Pitch 5 goes up overhung finger crack with great rock and holds to top. Walk north to descend Hiker's Gully to your packs.

Protection

standard rack of single cams, double set of nuts, 15 runners; I brought a #5 camalot and used it on the chimney pitch as recommended but didn't really need it. An old hex fixed on start of pitch 2, one piton on crux in pitch 3 and long fixed slings on top of the pillar.
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
  5.8+
The Backcountry Guide describes the direct "Blind Ambition" finish to this route. We did it on a whim and thought it was awesome--the best part of the route. I haven't done the regular finish to compare, but Blind Ambition has some serious exposure and exciting (but moderate) climbing. Jan 18, 2016
Luis Cisneros
Tucson
  5.8
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
  5.8
Jake Stephens and I did an alternative start on the left side of the lower buttress. This start adds two pitches of climbing, instead of the third class approach before the chimney. The first one starts low and right on the buttress left of a large crack. Climb a nice hand crack on good rock (~5.8), exit right on top to a ledge to avoid loose rock. Then scramble left between some boulders and belay when convenient. Then carefully climb up broken rock in a corner by to a tree (5.7) and a short 3rd class section to the base of the chimney. This route is great fun with superb views. It protects very well with nuts and small cams. A single rack is enough, but bring plenty of long runners. Feb 16, 2015
Did this route in the late 70s. Guessing it's still a classic.

RIP, Layton Cor. Apr 23, 2013
JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
Don't be ridiculous!... uhh...do you know of any in the area?? Jan 23, 2012
Jimbo  
Your riding the tram Jeff? What's next, porters to haul your gear and make you tea? Dec 11, 2011
JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
As an alternative approach when riding the tram, you can shave off some elevation by taking the tram to the last stop. Scramble straight up the main gully to the right of the trailhead to intersect the phoneline trail. Hike the trail down canyon, (you actually keep gaining a small amount of elevation,) until you can access the final slope leading up and right to the base of the Kor Wall. Dec 8, 2011